#2. "RE: Hockey Dad with new D7000, 70-200 2.8 VRII and 18-200 VRII. Question." In response to Reply # 0
Welcome to the community. There are many people that can give better advice than I but with the lenses you have I would believe you won't have a problem if you pay attention to the lighting and adjust WB as needed. I've shot some basketball games and basically set some auto ISO sensitivity settings along with auto WB and got some pretty good shots using an 18-135 3.5-5.6. Most all pictures came out good except where there were different lights (old gym) and some of those had a yellow color cast. I did try some bracketing and exposure comp. to see how things would do. It's not going to cost you anything to shoot a lot (beauty of digital) and then check your metadata to prepare for future trips. Good luck with a great camera.
Nobody should seek his own good, but the good of others. <><
#3. "RE: Hockey Dad with new D7000, 70-200 2.8 VRII and 18-200 VRII. Question." In response to Reply # 0
I would shoot with the 70-200 and ditch the 18-200, that extra 1/2-1+ stops can be used to buy more shutter speed and the 18-69mm range is not great for hockey (closer shots of the action are better than wider angles showing the whole game imo).
I would shoot in Continuous AF, 9 or 21 points, auto WB, RAW (you can use JPEG if you are a shutter mashing burst shooter, with RAW you will get 11 (14 bit) or 15 (12 bit) shots in a burst at 6fps before the buffer needs a few seconds to empty or you will get slow down - with RAW however if your WB is off it is easy to fix), continuous high speed shooting (5 fps), aperture wide open most of the time to keep your shutter speed up, ISO as high as 3200 to keep your shutter speed up (you can use auto ISO) and I would shoot in shutter priority mode - making sure my shutter speed was at least 1/500 to freeze action.
I would use matrix metering but you are likely going to need to add +1-1.5 in exposure compensation as the meter will want to expose all that white (ice) as 18% grey and your photos will look darkish. I have not tried center weighted metering with the d7000 for hockey yet, it might work without exposure compensation.
Most of all, have fun and cheer on your kid and his teammates between shots!
#4. "RE: Hockey Dad with new D7000, 70-200 2.8 VRII and 18-200 VRII. Question." In response to Reply # 3
try switching your meter to manual. do test frames until you're happy with the faces. then you're set. 1/500 might work for the little kids, but you'll need more speed as the kids get older and faster. my target usually is 1/800, and it's possible in most rinks with decent lighting ... although sometimes you may need to get up around 6400iso to manage it. i do test frames for my indoor athletics for a couple of reasons ... you usually have one team in white and the other team in something dark. exposures will change depending on which uniform dominates the frame. but the big point is: your shots are about the people in them and should emphasize well-exposed faces. (also, try shooting from lower angles and work to make eye contact with your subjects. it really adds a dimension to sports shots.) the other reason is the lights. if you get low and shoot up at the athletes -- which can make shots of something like basketball or volleyball very dramatic -- you too often end up with ceiling lights in your frames. the meter will factor those in, close down the aperature and darken the faces. it's another good reason to test until you have good faces, then stick with a manual setting. generally, this approach will give good results. but don't be surprised to see the occasional slightly darker or color-shifted frame. most indoor venues have fluorescent lights. these are not constant. there is a pulse to them, and sometimes you'll pick that up. but usually it's not so severe that you can't correct in photoshop
#5. "RE: Hockey Dad with new D7000, 70-200 2.8 VRII and 18-200 VRII. Question." In response to Reply # 4
Monterey Bay, US
I would use the 70-200 at f/2.8 with hood.
Set your D7000 for single spot priority and learn to pan your shots. If you get good at it, you can shot at low as 60s. Set your AE-L/AF-L to AF-ON and use that button to prefocus on the spot where the picture will be taken. Then hold it down to lock on the moving subject. You can keep it down while taking multiple shots.
Start with Auto ISO max 6400 and minimum shutter speed 500. It will go below that if needed to get exposure.
Start with your EV set at 0 and raise it if needed. You can review the effects by turning on Live View and using the + magnifier. I use the viewfinder to shoot.
I do not use Active D Lighting because it slows down the camera, but you may find it very useful for brightening up the faces.
When I first started taking Digital Pictures for hire, I shot everything I could with NEFs. I now only use NEF as a second card backup for the most important weddings. The in camera JPEGs have gotten so good that I seldom end up with anything better after spending considerable time in PhotoShop CS5 and the new JPEG software (I use ACDsee Pro) has become quick and easy when needed.