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Subject: "d 7K and SB 700" Previous topic | Next topic
hankwt Silver Member Nikonian since 01st Mar 2012Thu 01-Nov-12 11:45 PM
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"d 7K and SB 700"


kingsville, CA
          

I have a D7000 and a Nikon SB 700 flash I have a great grasp of exposure settings in S A and M with ambient light both indoors and out i use mostly manual setting so hear is my dilemma Im just getting into flash:
Cam is set to Manual
I set my flash at TTL then i set my desired aperture then use my meter to check on the speed setting .... so how do i determine this if using flash ???
it seems to me the camera's meter is telling me the correct exposure without flash ??? what am i missing here or do i set my exposure just the same way ?? if i turn the flash on or off the meter says the same thing. I know flash is a whole different world but just trying to get some basics started here

BW- Big Wayner My motocross kid is faster than your A student !!

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Replies to this topic
Subject Author Message Date ID
Reply message RE: d 7K and SB 700
JPJ Silver Member
02nd Nov 2012
1
Reply message RE: d 7K and SB 700
km6xz Moderator
03rd Nov 2012
2
Reply message RE: d 7K and SB 700
dm1dave Administrator
03rd Nov 2012
3
     Reply message RE: d 7K and SB 700
hankwt Silver Member
03rd Nov 2012
4
          Reply message RE: d 7K and SB 700
km6xz Moderator
04th Nov 2012
5
               Reply message RE: d 7K and SB 700
hankwt Silver Member
05th Nov 2012
6

JPJ Silver Member Nikonian since 20th Aug 2009Fri 02-Nov-12 01:51 AM
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#1. "RE: d 7K and SB 700"
In response to Reply # 0


Toronto, CA
          

This is a fairly common question and whenever I see it I always link this article because I couldn't explain it any better:

http://neilvn.com/tangents/2010/11/04/flash-photography-essentials/

Jason

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km6xz Moderator Awarded for his in-depth knowledge in various areas, including Portraits and Urban Photography Nikonian since 22nd Jan 2009Sat 03-Nov-12 09:37 AM
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#2. "RE: d 7K and SB 700"
In response to Reply # 0


St Petersburg, RU
          

It all seems complicated until you realize that there are two metering systems, the one in the camera that in Matrix, considers the entire scene with emphasis on the area of the selected focal point. The second independent metering is in the flash.
When you meter there is no illumination other than the ambient to that is reflected in the readout. Taking the photo without flash will be exposed normally, based on the ambient light. So if there is enough light without flash, and the shutter and aperture are set for the reading, turning on the flash will only add light above the level the meter reported and result in overexposure. If you metered and adjusted the exposure settings to some underexposure level, say 3 stops under exposed, the TTL flash will make up the difference, adding that 3 stops.
So for normal non-backlit scene, you can control the relative scene to subject exposure by adjusting the camera exposure for the degree of scene or background exposure you seek and let the TTL flash determine the subject exposure. Underexposing more according to the meter means the background will be underexposed by the same amount, darkened, below the exposure level calculated by the flash for the subject. Setting the exposure of the overall scene close to, but lower than normal exposure will mean the background and subject will be close to each other in illumination.
There are many scenes that the subject is reflecting less light than the ambient, at night or day, almost any ambient conditions can have the scene brighter than the subject due to position, a shadow on the subject etc. That is a case for TTL BL Balanced mode on the flash. Ambient is still metered as before for the whole scene and if the shot is taken the scene would be properly exposed, but the subject is darker, a typical backlight situation, for example the subject at the beach at sundown. Taking that shot without flash means well exposed beach and setting sun but a dark subject whose back is to the source of light. Exposing for the scene is handled by the camera meter as normally the case but the TTL BL metering of the flash, the flash tries to illuminate the subject to equal the scene illumination. The two metering systems treat the scene and subject independently with the flash concerned with the subject.

Flash in a low lit scene is easier than most other exposure means using Manual. Set the camera exposure for the optimum for DOF of your preference, and shutter speed based on knowing the fast pulse of light will freeze motion(but is subject to ghosting if ambient it higher) and let the Flash calculate the correct light level to expose the subject properly. A dark restaurant or party for example could be set in Manual, 1/80 ISO200 and f/4.0 and leave it that way all night, letting the flash in TTL calculate and properly expose the subjects.

If the lights come on and metering shows good exposure is possible you have two choices, decrease exposure by the degree you want to bias the exposure to the subject instead of background, or turn off the flash.
When using flash, turn off Auto-ISO and use manual whenever possible.
It all makes sense once you think of there being two independent metering systems with two different focuses of attention.

If there is enough light to get proper exposure according to the meter, using any flash at all will add to the already suitable ambient lighting so overexposure will result. The exception is if the subject is darker than ambient, then switch the flash to TT BL and expose the scene normally as if the subject was not darker, allowing the flash to fill in and balance background and subject illumination.

Note that some strong backlight and very dark subject can't be balanced by a flash. The strong sunset light versus a subject far from the flash is an example where BL is not going to generate enough light. Studio strobes would be used to try to "overpower" the sun. For flash photography you can just move closer to the subject to greatly increase the illumination of the subject.

Once these points are second nature then you can start considering creative control of background versus subject by calculating the degree of under exposure or flash fall off to get very dark background even in a normally lit room. Flash becomes a lot of fun once some basics are really understood.
Stan
St Petersburg Russia

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dm1dave Administrator Awarded for high level knowledge and skills in various areas, most notably in Wildlife and Landscape Writer Ribbon awarded for his excellent article contributions to the Nikonians community Nikonian since 12th Sep 2006Sat 03-Nov-12 07:11 PM
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#3. "RE: d 7K and SB 700"
In response to Reply # 2


Lowden, US
          

Great post Stan!

Dave Summers
Lowden, Iowa
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hankwt Silver Member Nikonian since 01st Mar 2012Sat 03-Nov-12 08:02 PM
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#4. "RE: d 7K and SB 700"
In response to Reply # 3


kingsville, CA
          

thanks Stan I have hear prior to your post about exposing 2-3 stops lower which has helped me already Also been starting to rea
d Russ McDonalds blog and Strobist 101 I have the SB 700 which only has a TTL setting I believe the metering setting on the cam determines TTL for fill or TTLBulb ill have to delve into this further

I think its

Spot metering = full flash TTL
Matrix and Center weight meter = fill flash TTLBL

??


BW- Big Wayner My motocross kid is faster than your A student !!

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

  

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km6xz Moderator Awarded for his in-depth knowledge in various areas, including Portraits and Urban Photography Nikonian since 22nd Jan 2009Sun 04-Nov-12 06:37 PM
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#5. "RE: d 7K and SB 700"
In response to Reply # 4


St Petersburg, RU
          

Balanced fill only works in Matrix metering since the meter needs to determine the overall scene illumination, which it can't do in spot or center weighted. The flash also needs to be in TTL BL mode. Stepping through the modes and TTL BL will be an option if the flash is mounted on the shoe and it is in Matrix.
2-3 Stops in TTL mode is a good way to ensure that the subject will be illuminated normally by the flash's metering but the background will be darker. How much darker? Well that will be the 2-3 stops lower but with the addition of flash light that falls on background elements near the focal plane of the subject. A receded background will potentially look 2-3 stops under exposed. A background closer to the subject will be some level between the flash level on the subject and the ambient 2-3 stops down.
The more the flash has to make up for the low ambient the more power it will generate so if shooting an event that will require hundreds of shots, increasing the exposure due to ambient will mean lower flash power is generated. Based on the discussion above, you would also expect the background would be more illuminated by ambient light as well.
It is easy to experiment buy getting a wig styling dummy head for $5 from a beauty supply shop and set it in the middle of a darkened room. It is a lot more patience for experiments than a human model. That way you can leisurely explore flash, fill, bounce, apparent size of the light source. When you see the difference with good bounce technique(which is rarely used by hobbyists, usually we see people using bounce from ceilings bounce point mid way between the photographer and subject which creates rather unflattering shadows and raccoon eyes, or using a bounce card as the main light source.)Trying some of the methods described on blogs is a good way to separate the wheat from the chaff of lighting technique.
This thread is more about flash than D7000 so we might move it to the flash forum.
Stan
St Petersburg Russia

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

  

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hankwt Silver Member Nikonian since 01st Mar 2012Mon 05-Nov-12 01:06 PM
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#6. "RE: d 7K and SB 700"
In response to Reply # 5


kingsville, CA
          



>It is easy to experiment buy getting a wig styling dummy head
>for $5 from a beauty supply shop and set it in the middle of a
>darkened room. It is a lot more patience for experiments than
>a human model.
>Stan


Very True Stan My wife refuse to sit for me anymore !! If the moderator agrees please move to the Flash section. I posted hear so it would relate to my specific cam. I have read Russ McDonalds blogs from Nikonians and Strobist 101 , as well as some info from Niel Van Niekirk which has really opened my eyes to a better understanding of how the 2 exposure systems work !!! in just this short time i have made a bit of improvement due to this understanding. now .... practice practice practice

BW- Big Wayner My motocross kid is faster than your A student !!

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

  

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Forums Lobby GET TO KNOW YOUR CAMERA & MASTER IT Nikon D7100, D7000 (Public) topic #21888 Previous topic | Next topic


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