Has anyone tried manipulating Picture Control settings in their D7000 particularly the Vivid control, with unexpected results?
I recently took a photo trip using the Vivid setting with results a bit different than the same Vivid settings applied to my D300. When bumping up the sharpness setting one notch on the plus side, it resulted in some over sharpening with slight ghosting outlines in some of the contrasty parts of my photos. Also, when the saturation was bumped up one notch on the plus side, my colors, especially the reds seemed a bit out of control. I have since backed off from these modified settings, putting them back to "o" but haven't tried them out yet.
When this same degree of Picture Control modification was applied to the settings on my D300, the changes seemed more ambiguous there,less noticeable. I suppose the different sensor and a few other things in the D7000 must have caused this to happen. Not noticeable in every print, but mostly in portraits. I also had similar problems, given the same modifications, in Landscape Picture Control settings, but not to the same degree.
If this is a repeat of a previous post, my apologies. Any responses greatly appreciated.

efeibush

The effect of Vivid (all controls at 0) from my D7000 appears to be very close to the results I get from same Vivid settings in my D700 and D3s. Then again, I haven't done a direct comparison using a single test subject in a controlled situation. So I think I'm only saying that no significant differences in Vivid settings have popped out at me when viewing photos made with each camera.

A friend is using a D60 and her Vivid setting (again, all controls at 0) produces images which seem different to me in terms of color saturation. She uses the sRGB color space and I use Adobe RGB. That may account for some perceptible difference.

Are you using the same color space on your D7000 and D300. If not, I suggest resetting both cameras to the same color space and then make some comparison shots using a single subject in good light.

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Howard Carson, Managing Editor
Kickstartnews Inc. - http://www.kickstartnews.com

Firstly, thanks for the reply Howard.
Yes, I am using the same color space (sRGB) as on my D300. Shooting mostly Jpgs. The color saturation on the D7000 is noticeably greater and the sharpness bumped up just one notch in Vivid produces far too many "white halos" in contrasty areas of most images. I think I have to "zero out" my Vivid control and try the Standard setting with some modifications. I've only had this camera a short time and find it's image quality to be absolutely superb. I've not seen such sharp detail and tremendous skin tones in any other Nikon DSLR I have ever owned.
Shooting the non VR 18-135 Nikon lens produced extremely sharp results, and this camera could benefit from use of a higher quality lens. Started using much smaller apertures in some of the landscape scenes and these turned out very well with much more DOF. You needn't feel confined to f5.6 to f11 with this camera. I believe it is so good any of the smaller apertures work extremely well. Either that, or I'm starting to learn more photography.
In any event, I just love this camera and like so many Nikon DSLRs, we have to work with them and tweak the settings a little.
Thanks again for your reply.

efeibush

>I think I have to "zero
>out" my Vivid control and try the Standard setting with
>some modifications. I've only had this camera a short time and
>find it's image quality to be absolutely superb. I've not seen
>such sharp detail and tremendous skin tones in any other Nikon
>DSLR I have ever owned.

We're in complete agreement about the D7000's technical image quality for sure. I suggest leaving all Picture Control settings at their defaults for some time to come - perhaps a month, total, of regular shooting (however long it takes you to do that given your personal schedule, work, etc.). My reasoning is basically that the difference between a new camera and the one we're used to can often take some time to overcome in order to appreciate the actual advantages of the new camera. The D300 was/is a superb camera, and IMO it can tough to beat in the hands of a skilled photographer, even when it's up against a D7000.

By comparison, there's no doubt that the D7000 has a noticeably more resolution, produces larger image files and croppable image files as a result, and that the D7000 can unfortunately make some average Nikon lenses look less than stellar. For those reasons and others too, I feel strongly that it's best to live for some time with a new camera's default Picture Control settings in order to fully embrace the design and intent of those controls in the new camera. I worry that if I immediately adjust Picture Controls in a new camera to suit what I'm used to, that I'll simply be trying to convert the new camera into nothing more than a higher resolution version of the older camera. I worry further that if I make that 'mistake' it will take me longer to discover the best of the new camera's capabilities. Anyway, that's how I view the subject.

I usually need to make about a thousand serious shots with a new camera before I personally feel confident about tweaking Picture Controls. The only thing related to Picture Controls that I immediately set in a new camera is color space - to AdobeRGB. I know for a fact that many other Nikonians and many other camera owners don't need a thousand serious shots to get a handle on Picture Control preferences in respect of a new camera's more advanced image quality production.

My Nikonians Gallery

Howard Carson, Managing Editor
Kickstartnews Inc. - http://www.kickstartnews.com

"Discover the best of the new camera's capabilities" is the key phrase here. I just haven't given it enough time, (taken enough pictures) at the Picture Control default settings. I will surely do that, deferring to the experience of more accomplished photographers than myself. I can create other Picture Control settings as I go.
I also concur in that we may become used to our older camera and expect to treat the new camera the same way, however the D7000 is a different animal. As I work with it I find it to be a superb piece of hardware. I've also found that sometimes it's the opposite of what you suggested; that a camera like the D7000 can make an average consumer lens like the 18 - 135 into a better than average lens simply because of the increased image detail the camera produces.
I play tennis and find that the best pros out there really try to work with each player without trying to change too much in their tennis strokes. Working with good cameras is analogous in that I think you have to work with the camera and its own qualities without changing its basic functions too much. Not sure if I've made myself clear here, but one thing is certainly clear; that "the picture is the thing" no matter what equipment we use to capture that light. Thanks again, Ron for your insight.

efeibush

>I've also found that sometimes
>it's the opposite of what you suggested; that a camera like
>the D7000 can make an average consumer lens like the 18 - 135
>into a better than average lens simply because of the
>increased image detail the camera produces.

I think you're absolutely correct. I should have said average optical quality. While the Nikkor 18-135 does not offer professional build quality and offers only moderately controlled edge distortion, it is widely regarded - just like you've noted - as a very sharp lens. Not average at all IMO. All of the Nikkor lenses (consumer, semi-pro, pro) designed and manufactured during the past five years or so seem more than capable of delivering the sort of resolution that sensors like the one in the D7000 can fully detect and capture. I think that leaves a number (but certainly not all) of the pre-2002 lens designs behind. I think it's those 'older' lens designs that produce very average results when used on a D7000.

My Nikonians Gallery

Howard Carson, Managing Editor
Kickstartnews Inc. - http://www.kickstartnews.com

I concur Howard. You took the words right out of my mouth. Couldn't agree more with your take on Nikon lenses. In fact, I still shoot my original 18-70mm non VR lens which came bundled with my old D70. It produces excellent images and the lens' build quality was pretty good, probably one of the best all around kit lenses Nikon ever made IMHO. I've yet to try it out on my D7000 but will bet you it would produce very good images.
In any event, finding it truly enjoyable getting used to my D7000 and much appreciate your generous help and insight.

efeibush

G,day,

I don't think I have had unexpected results, but with VIv and Saturation at full + does give a really garish green. The Blues and Reds are richer, but I didn't expect the hit on the green

I also use all my picture controls with the Brightness wound down. -1. It seems to be less of a problem with noise in shadows.
For bright sunny days, I also take -1 off contrast, and if it is really contrast subject, lots of shadows and light highlights I take it down to -3. Reckoning if needed I can always sneak in a bit of contrast in pp.

I shoot small birds in a grey forest, and sometimes on overcast days, add a little extra +1 or +2 to Saturation. Just saves me ramping it up later in pp.

Most of what I do, can be done if I shoot nef and then spend some time in pp, but for some subjects that go to magazines or print material, I reckon it gets close enough in camera not to warrant the additional time.

I think a whole new thread could be started on opinions of is there any difference in the way STD, Neutral, Vivid, Landscape etc really work. Is there any 'curve' correction in each that differs? What if any color diffs are already preset. eg, Portrait, vs Landscape?

And it will make a difference to the end result if you add say +3 Saturation to each of them as they start from a different base?

I really like the colors that Vivid does on evening photos of buildings etc.

DJ

.. I set out to discover the inventions of God. -John Muir

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Thanks for the input DJ. Am going to try some of your suggested settings. Much thanks for you response.

efeibush