#1. "RE: Perfectly Clear" In response to Reply # 0
Colorado Springs, US
I tried it and found it was much like most auto-correction software: it almost always did worse than what I could do simply and easily with manually adjustments. I don't plan to purchase it, especially given how expensive it is.
#2. "RE: Perfectly Clear" In response to Reply # 1
I have experience using OnOne similar software as a plug in with LR4 and it works great I know the Nik products are just as good. FYI, Google just announced a major price break on the Nik Software bundle and are going to plug in versions the entire collection, HDR efex, Color Efex, Silver efex, Sharpener, Dfine and Viveza all for $149. I plan on purchasing this very soon this is quite a deal considering the entire package use to run $350 to $500 depending on which modules you purchased.
#3. "RE: Perfectly Clear" In response to Reply # 0
On the other hand, I have found it to be quite useful. It is a great time-saver for me and though I always tweak the settings, I use the program often. As stated, it is an auto-setting type of software that may or may not suit your needs. It seems to do extremely well with mid-tones. One of its advantages over say Lightroom sliders is that it is a pixel by pixel evaluation and change. That being said, it is a plugin and I always make changes in Lightroom prior to going to the plugin. Prior to going into PC, I make certain there is a gap on either side of the histogram to keep PC from making too many exposure changes. I also remove any sharpening that may be present that are found in the Detail panel. I do not like PC's noise reduction abilities as they are far too aggressive and appear to actually make the image look blurry in spots unless you reduce the strength and increase the detail. LR does a better job. In the Lens Correction panel, I check the "enable profile corrections" and "remove chromatic aberration' boxes. Finally, in the Camera Calibration panel , there is the ability to change the profile which I do depending on the type of shot. Then, I make any last second tweaks prior to opening PC. One thing PC does with almost all its settings is to add too much contrast. I bring the contrast slider back first and then tweak the other settings to taste. I mostly stay away from "fidelity" as it seems to cut back on the higher frequency colors which seems to work only in cases where there is extremely low contrast in the original photograph. That being said, the other sliders seem to work quite well but as with any program, they are starting points. You can make up your own starting points and save them as a kind of preset in PC.
When I return to LR, I make any final changes that I need to make and save the metadata. You can always create your own presets in LR to speed things up as well. This sounds like a lot but it goes rather quickly once you get the mechanics down. I do not use PC without first going through the steps outlined already. I learned this technique through an online tutorial provided by Xrite. Sorry, I do not remember the name of the show or the person making the recommendations but I can say she did me a great service by having me make the changes I mentioned prior to opening and using PC. It is expensive and you have to decide whether or not this program fits your needs and whether or not you like the output from the program. Personally, I really like the program but others find it intimidating or prefer their own techniques. You have to make your own choice but the expense is the major obstacle.