I do not know whether others are also experiencing the same problem. I am an addict of polariser when it comes to outdoor photography.
My 55-200mm Nikon DX lens came with a bayonet lens hood. While it does it's job and also looks nice, when it comes to using a polariser, I have to remove the hood, adjust the polariser and again put back the hood.
And my 18-55mm Nikon DX Kit lens came without a hood. Here I tried to hunt for a suitable hood, but all of them are petal shaped. Again when using a polariser orientation of the hood changes(obviously) when I rotate the polariser. Even worse, this lens has a rotating front part for focusing (whereas the tele zoom does not rotate). So I am forced to use this lens without a lens hood.
There is a reason you've been finding that suitable lens hoods for your lens is petal shaped.
A good lens hood can nearly eliminate flare caused by stray light from outside the angle of view. It's important to note that lens hoods for zoom lenses can only be designed to block stray light at the widest focal length so as not to interfere with the image at those widest focal lengths when the lens' is using its greatest angle of view.
Petal lens hoods can protect better than round (non-petal) lens hoods on wide angle lenses. This is because petal-style hoods take into account the aspect ratio of the camera's film or digital sensor, and so the angle of view is greater in one direction than the other. Hence the lens hood can be longer in one direction than the other and not negatively affect your image.
Because a zoom lens has a variable angle of view, a petal lens hood is even more important on a zoom lens than a prime lens with a single angle of view, as for the zoom lens' being used at its longest focal lengths, its lens hood will be necessarily shorter than it could be, and thus offer less protection than it could have.
On the other hand, round lens hoods can only be as long as the shortest length of a petal lens hood for lenses, so the ability to reduce lens flare is not as great as with a petal lens hood.
There are "step down" or "step up," whichever you want to call them round, rubber lens hoods available on the market today. They are screw in lens hoods (I've never seen one of this type other than screw in lens hoods.) which collapse to different lengths (steps) to accommodate the different focal lengths of zoom lenses, thusly permitting longer hood lengths at longer focal lengths.
I never use my lenses without lens hoods, even when using a polarizer. I know it's a pain in the neck, but I'm generally able to put my finger on the edge of the polarizer in the lens hood to slowly rotate it. If that's not possible I will temporarily remove the lens hood, adjust the polarizer, and replace the lens hood. Again, it's a pain in the neck, but necessary.
In addition to the lens flare which lens hoods are effective at eliminating to a large extent, lens hoods protect the lens keeping the front of the lens from bumping into objects which could damage them. I suggest purchasing a lens hood for the 18-55mm and using it, despite the pain in the neck it can be.
You mentioned that you are "an addict of polariser when it comes to outdoor photography." Perhaps you are over using the polarizer. Perhaps you are using the polarizer when it's not particularly effect, and eliminating that would reduce the pain in the neck times of using it, to when it is actually effective.
The angle of polarization varies continuously with the angle from the sun your camera/lens is at relative to it. Polarization is most effective at 90 degrees to the sun. So when your subject is at a right angle to the sun's position using your polarizing filter can be extremely effective, but at 180 degrees to the sun, when the sun is behind you, the use of a polarizing filter is almost worthless. In between you get different amounts of potential effectiveness.
With a lens equal to or wider than about 28mm (in FX terms terms, and 18mm for DX) the sky will often be unevenly polarized when a polarizing filter is used. This is because of the wide angle of view where the subject is significantly at different angles to the sun rendering the polarization very effective in some parts of the image, and much less so in other parts of the image.
Considering this, you might remove your pain by using the polarizing filter only when it will noticeably actually improve your photograph. I use polarization outside quite often, but I suspect far less than you.
My 18-55 mm lens came with a round lens hood, no petals. It's only about an inch deep. I use it, but I question how helpful it really is, other than providing protection for the lens. But I almost never have an issue with lens flare, so maybe it does work.
working on it in Middle TN Nikon D3100
35 mm 1.8 Nikkor 18-55 mm Nikkor VR 55-200 mm Nikkor VR 55-300 mm Nikkor VR 150-500 mm Sigma OS Feisol CT3471 & Markins M20 ballhead
For wide angle lenses, especially zooms, it's not that the round lens hood doesn't work at all, it's just that a petal lens hood can be more effective due to its design, and it especially makes a difference at the long end of the lens.
Thank you very much for the replies. I understand that one has to be put up with the pain in the neck when using polarizer with hood. And thank you Brian for pointing me out on over using the polarizer. I tend to have the polarizer permanently on the lens when I am outdoors. Actually I don't need to polarize every scene. And what you said about 28mm (FX) and wider lenses is news to me. Thanks for that too.
Actually it was me. Keeping the polarizer permanently on the lens can actually cause you real problems, and/or effects which are unwanted.
For example, with the polarizing filter on almost all the time, you are often cutting down the available light to photographs which could benefit from it. Second, you need to adjust it for virtually every shot to optimize the shot which to my way of thinking is a waste of your time. Third, anything between the sensor and the lens can reduce image IQ. It's better to use it only when it will do something positive for you that you wish to be accomplished. Fourth, while a polarizing filter can be a great tool for removing reflections and isolating objects which are wet, underwater or behind a window, there are many times that's counter productive. For example, take a look at this wildlife photo in which the heron's reflection greatly adds to the image.
I see that your membership is at the Basic Level, which doesn't include many benefits other members have. For example, members at the Basic Level don't have the benefit of uploading and storing images in forums. Only members at the Silver Level and above have that benefit.
Thanks Ned for the info. Right now I do not have an International Debit Card to make payment. (In fact I do not purchase online across the globe). Once I decide to have that card, I shall become a Silver member.
I am on basic membership. Everytime I add to my gallery, I get extra days or when I reply to a post or something similar. I also have the privilege of uploading an image with my post via my gallery. With my membership, I cannot join contests..at least that is what I understand I cannot do...
Up on the right hand side of your login at the top, there is a selection. One of them is "My Gallery". Start one. Upload a photo. After uploading a photo, you will be asked to put in some details like descriptions of your photo, etc. Then there is a line where there is a number for that particular photo. Copy that to upload your photo in your post.
The Gallery helped me tremendously when I had a problem with my new camera. I photographed my camera with my other one and upload it as photo and asked the group for help. Now that I am slowly learning more about it, I deleted my "problem photos" and started uploading other ones I took.
Read your notices...just my ten cent (inflation)...Hope this helps.
Fly safe, drive safe and keep safe. G'day and G'lock.... Izzie
Down the details where the photo you upload to, there will be some selection of description and such. If you go down to "FOR FORUM POST" then at the end it says "copy to clipboard" this is the part where you highlight then go to your post and hold down the Ctrl button on your keyboard then press the letter V and you will be able to post your image on your post.
'Hope this helps...
Fly safe, drive safe and keep safe. G'day and G'lock.... Izzie
I always use the recommended hoods for my lenses except when using a polarizer or ND grad. Then I use the Cokin P system holder. There are square plastic hood pieces that can be attached to the front of the holder (and a much rarer bellows hood). The plastic hoods can be stacked together to make hoods of varying lengths to suit the focal length. Filters can be slid into the holder and polarizers can be rotated without interference from the hood.
The hoods aren't the best in the world and certainly not as good as the ones designed for the lens but they are designed to work with the filters. Cokin filters aren't bad but other companies make quality filters to fit the system. I use a Singh Ray polarizer and Hitech grads in my Cokin holder and stack 1 to 3 square hood pieces as needed.
Of course this requires purchasing a new polarizer to fit the system. Your existing screw-in filters won't do.