I would like to know how to set up my equipment with Nikon D700 and SB600 speedlight or the built in flash...to achieve a picture like the one show it here...with the background like that..

thanks.

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Attachment #1, (jpg file)

My guess:
The camera was set to "rear sync" flash mode.
A shutter speed slow enough to get some of the ambient light (and let in some camera shake), say 1/15.
The flash way probably in TTL mode.

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Joseph K
Seattle, WA, USA

D700, D200, D70S, 24-70mm f/2.8, VR 70-200mm f/2.8 II,
50mm f/1.4 D, 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 VR, 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5 DX

Another way to do this is to set the camera to manual metering and use that to determine the exposure you want for the background. You can then use either the aperture or the shutter speed to control the background exposure. However, there are two considerations (at least) that you want to make: 1) keep the selected shutter speed within the strobe synch speed - that's really not a problem with this photo but it could be with other images that are brighter and you want just "daylight fill flash"... 2) Keep the aperture relatively wide (or open). You don't want a small (say f/8 or f/11) aperture so that that strobe power isn't sufficient or limit the range of your strobe with a small aperture. Again likely not an issue with these image condition, but I would suggest an aperture of something like f/4 or f/2.8.

Now set your SB600 to TTL as you want the strobe to be your main light. The Nikon strobe integration will take over and the light on the subject will be determined by your selection of aperture, strobe power and the camera's automagic adjustment of strobe exposure.

I typically choose an ISO of 400 or 800 for these images on my D700. That gives me reasonable speed for the background exposure, a usable strobe "range" at f/2.8 or f/4 and minimal "grain". There will likely be blue channel noise in the dark portions of the sky, but it rarely shows for modern DSLRs, in prints or typical screen magnifications. If you pixel peep you may find some, but I've only added it as ISO can be chosen for a reason.

Best Regards

Roger
It's still, ISO, aperture and shutter-speed, right?

Thanks Roger that is a good explanation..but what about using slow sync or rear sync which one would be the best choice...in order to capture in full the background as well..

thanks.

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Silvio,

I use rear sync but not as often as the method I described. With rear sync, the camera is in charge of the balance. With that method, the camera will often also try to adjust the background to a middle gray and in this case that would not be my choice.

I prefer to set the background exposure to my own liking. In this case at a level that just lets the post-dusk sun-glow leak through. The CLS lighting system on the camera/strobe then provides the foreground/subject illumination balance.

Best Regards,

Roger
It's still, ISO, aperture and shutter-speed, right?

there is an excellent APP on the apple store about using the Nikon CLS system...might be on AMAZON as well..

It's a very nice video that goes through all the aspects of using the CLS system and various strobes...

I've gone Pocketwizards for all my strobes...

Check out Pocketwizards website for infomational videos and discussions..

The PW's are a bit $$$, but, aftering using them for the past year, it's the only way to go IMHO..the CLS system, while powerful, relies on line of sight for the flash to work..

The PW's are radio controlled and allow you, with the AC3 controller to vary the power of the flash in 3 seperate zones...

they sell a TT1, TT5 system that connects to all NIKON (most) flashes for control...

Again, not cheap, but, they work...

dc

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+1 on the PocketWizards. I was using Yongnuo remotes to get by until I could swing the PW's. It's SO much easier with PocketWizard remotes, especially with the AC3 zone controller. More time to shoot, less time wasted trying to adjust flash output levels on each speedlight.

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