I just ried this combo to acquired a high manification ratio on macro shots, but my shots comes out all underexposed. I try to focus the lens wide open in mounted reversed on FM3A. I tried to meter the subject (using F100) on an aperture of f/16 and gives me a shutter speed of 4". 4 sec exposure is impossible to achieved on FM3a if its not on Aperture priority and in reversed position. I can use a cable released using B and exposed it at 4 sec, but as much as possible, I want to use the timer to activate its mirror lock-up and minimized vibration on such high manification. Is there any other way around this?

Cheers!!!!
Heldinson ^_^

http://asia.geocities.com/nlc513/index.htm

Heldinson, I've done this on an F4 and FM2 with a BR-2A and reversed 28mm, 35mm and 50mm. The reversed 35mm will give approximately 1.5:1 (1.5x lifesize).

Switch to faster film if you can. Having said that, what film are you using? 4 sec @ f/16 is waaay down there in the EV levels. On ISO 100, that setting is usually for a twilight or early evening scene. If you can shoot this subject where there's more light, that'll help a lot.

As well, bracket towards over-exposure (by about 1 stop) when metering through a reversed lens. Since you've done this already, I don't have to mention you need to perform stop-down metering.

In my experience, 4 seconds without mirror lock up is capable of providing sharp pictures. In my opinion, those micro-vibrations only come into play between the shutter speeds of 1/15 and 2 sec. Beyond this range, you don't need mirror lockup, the shutter speed is either too short to record the vibration or the shutter speed is too long compared to the vibration. So I won't be afraid to try bulb and cable release.

Ed

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

I take close-ups with a 35mm/2 MF reversed on an FE2, which should behave similarly to an FM3A, using autoexposure. I use artificial lighting; even a lamp with the shade removed and a mirror on the opposite side can do the job. However, I had a lot of flare (with a cast of fog on underexposed pictures) because of side lighting. The BR-3 adapter ring, used as a lens shade, solved the problem.

Kam

Kam, Ed,

Thanks for your response. I will be getting another roll of film and try another round of shots, and let you know the result.

Thanks

Cheers!!!!
Heldinson ^_^

http://asia.geocities.com/nlc513/index.htm

Kam,Ed

I did the shot again posted somewhere on Pbase here's the link:

http://www.pbase.com/heldinson/macro_shots_with_reversed_mount_lens

Let me know what you think.

Cheers!!!!
Heldinson ^_^

http://asia.geocities.com/nlc513/index.htm

They are both great pictures, especially the first. So the reversal of the 35mm is working well. What type of film did you use? It seems to have high grain.

Kam

Kam

Thanks I appreciates it, I used Kodak ektachrome on both shots, Yeah thats what I notice too....its a bit grainy.

Thanks

Cheers!!!!
Heldinson ^_^

http://asia.geocities.com/nlc513/index.htm

Heldinson, you have good eye. That's a pretty good shot and the subject's great. It's just a little underexposed in my opinion. Did you compensate? I always bracket my shots when doing reversed lens shooting, ie. bracket towards overexposure.

Ed

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

I recently tried the PB-6 bellows and shot several shots with the bellows at its maximum extension on Kodak Supra 400 film. I set the 105 micro lens at f/32 with a shutter speed of 1/250 on the F100 body. The lighting was from 2- SB-28s set at TTL, connected to the body with SC-17 & SC-18 cords. The exposure was excellent. Using the speedlights and a fast shutter speed eliminates any vibration problems.
Jim