The attached is taken with a D200 on a tripod using a sigma 70-200 and 2x converter. I haven't received my remote yet for this camera. So the shot was taken "manually" and not on the timer as the gorilla would have moved on by the time the min 2 sec went by.
The lenses were purchsaed as my previous D70 set up, I believe now I need to invest in a nikkor lens and have been advised that the Nikkor 70-200 with VR will help considerably.
ALso the exposure, using spot, I attempted to focus on the eyes etc but as u can see this handsome chap is difficult to catch his eye. I have messed around with levels etc and this seems to flatten and lose some of the colour.
Advice on lens and expousre and post processing would be appreciated. Also would using flash help, but I am concerend about using direct flash with animals.
The web site of the local zoo; Island of Jersey. " Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust".
Attachment #1, (jpg file)
#1. "RE: Zoo Gorilla" | In response to Reply # 0
Photophil Basic MemberSun 14-May-06 07:31 AM
Spot metering is often used for tricky shots where you have to deal with very bright or very dark subjects. I guess you metered on the gorilla which is too dark compared to mid-gray. Because the in-camera little computer is programmed to show EVERYTHING as mid-gray (even black and white), your almost black gorilla will be rendered as grey. Therefore, if you meter on the black gorilla, you should dial in -1 upto -1,7 stops of compensation (the little +/- button) to correct the camera's decision. An easier trick is to meter on a neutral tone (a mid-gray value like grass, foliage, grey rocks, red roof tiles, etc.). Lock that reading and recompose.
>I attempted to focus on the
>eyes etc but as u can see this handsome chap is difficult to
>catch his eye.
Sometimes, manual focusing works better and faster .
>I have messed around with levels etc and this
>seems to flatten and lose some of the colour.
It's ok to use levels, but curves gives you more controll. Also make sure your monitor is more or less calibrated. A cheap way (if you have Photoshop) is using "Adobe Gamma".
>Advice on lens...
Wildlife photography IS expensive because you need big glass. I can highly recommend the 80-400 VR which has a very useful zoom range and 400mm is more than enough to tackle most wildlife subjects.
>... and post processing would be appreciated.
Mastering Photoshop is complicated. Start with a good book that explains the basics like "Photoshop for dummies" (weird name, but it explains the basics very well and in a humorous way ). A little tip: read the book while sitting in front of your computer and try everything you read immediately out.
>Also would using flash help, but I am
>concerend about using direct flash with animals.
Flash helps on bright days to eliminate harsh shadows but when you're in a zoo, check first if you're allowed because sometimes, it is prohibited.