I have a N80 and have had some trouble using my SU-4 SB28. They work, but I have gotten badly over-exposed and SUper Over-Flashed pics. I set the N80 to Spot Meter (as I understand that will eliminate the monitor pre-flash .. is this necessary?) and I has the SU4 set to A. What should the SB28 be set to? I have only had it in normal matrix mode.. should it be in A mode too? I do not know how to use A mode.
Any help would be apreciated.
#1. "41 views and not 1 reply?" | In response to Reply # 0
#2. "RE: 41 views and not 1 reply?" | In response to Reply # 1
#3. "RE: 41 views and not 1 reply?" | In response to Reply # 2
jrp Charter MemberSun 09-Dec-01 03:04 AM
First, by using spot metering you might be under-evaluating the entire scene to be flashed. I am almost always in matrix.
Second, to avoid pre flash bursts, all you have to do is not to choose 3d matrix balanced TTL flash on the triggering flash, just standard TTL; or tilt the head of the triggering flash either upwards or sideways.
Third, the SU-4 should be in A for Auto, but the flash in standard TTL.
Fourth, Make certain the ISO speed is the appropiate, the flash not on the camera defaults to ISO 100. I like the resulting effect when using ISO 50, but the combo obviously overflashes when using ISO 200 or higher.
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#4. "RE: 41 views and not 1 reply?" | In response to Reply # 3
>First, by using spot metering you
>might be under-evaluating the entire
>scene to be flashed. I
>am almost always in matrix.
This could be true...good point
>Second, to avoid pre flash bursts,
>all you have to do
>is not to choose 3d
>matrix balanced TTL flash on
>the triggering flash, just standard
>TTL; or tilt the head
>of the triggering flash either
>upwards or sideways.
I have an N80 and have read that the built in flash will do monitor pre-flash in matrix or center-weight.. and will only not do the preflash in spot.
>Third, the SU-4 should be in
>A for Auto, but the
>flash in standard TTL.
>Fourth, Make certain the ISO speed
>is the appropiate, the flash
>not on the camera defaults
>to ISO 100. I like
>the resulting effect when using
>ISO 50, but the combo
>obviously overflashes when using ISO
>200 or higher.
I will check for this, thanks for the info.
#5. "SU-4" | In response to Reply # 4
DJ Basic MemberWed 26-Dec-01 12:39 AM
LAST EDITED ON Dec-26-01 AT 01:31 PM (GMT)
Although I've heard that it's not as sensitive as the Ikelite remote triggering device (which sells for about $25 more); using the SU-4 and having to worry about whether the sensor will sense the light has made me appreciate more the hard-wired tried and true AS-10 on a tripod with an SC-19 (10 foot cable).
That way, I'll often set a double headed SB-16 on camera to standard TTL in bounce mode (second flash head points straight ahead); while an SB-28 rests on a tripod to one side. I've used the SU-4 in place of the hard wiring, but when working with young children, the fast pace, and the constant movement of the tripod or flash head can result in one of the following on the SU-4 if you are not paying attention:
1. Inadvertently push switch from auto to manual (where flash fires at full output)
2. Inadvertently position sensor where it does not sense light of first flash to trigger slave on/off
3. Have main flash fire at too low an output relative to placement of slave to trigger slave (many possible reasons for this: fast film, very high ceiling dissipates light if bouncing first flash, etc.
Anyway, the SU-4 is great, it's rated to 23 feet in auto, many users on other bulletin boards have said 15 feet is more practical, others 18 or 20 feet.
Just be careful of the potential pitfallls I pointed out. As someone who had hard wiring and slaves, as great the problem of someone tripping over a wire and pulling down a flash and tripod, it's "guaranteed" otherwise. I don't advocate one over the other, I'm just pointing out the potential pitfalls.