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Forums Lobby MASTER YOUR TOOLS - Hardware & Software Nikon Speedlights & Lighting topic #62436
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Subject: "SB800 Mode" Previous topic | Next topic
aspenextreme Silver Member Nikonian since 04th Oct 2011Tue 12-Nov-13 02:01 PM
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"SB800 Mode"
Tue 12-Nov-13 02:13 PM by aspenextreme

Marietta, GA, US
          

I apologize if this has been posted before but I just got a SB800 used and have been testing it out. Currently I am using it when I am shooting on manual mode and use iTTL-bl. I know how to set the flash to M mode and adjust the power.

What is the best one to use off and on the camera?
Also, what is the best mode at night when the light is almost black.
And how do I get the flash to not flash the red light which makes my daughter squint prior to taking the shot.

Just looking for some practical advise and thanks in advance.

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

  

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Replies to this topic
Subject Author Message Date ID
Reply message RE: SB-800 Mode
jrp Administrator
13th Nov 2013
1
Reply message RE: SB-800 Mode
aspenextreme Silver Member
13th Nov 2013
2
Reply message RE: SB-800 Mode
Arkayem Moderator
13th Nov 2013
3
     Reply message RE: SB-800 Mode
aspenextreme Silver Member
13th Nov 2013
4
          Reply message RE: SB-800 Mode
Arkayem Moderator
13th Nov 2013
5
          Reply message RE: SB-800 Mode
Chris Platt Silver Member
15th Nov 2013
7
Reply message RE: SB800 Mode
Arkayem Moderator
13th Nov 2013
6

jrp Administrator JRP is one of the co-founders, has in-depth knowledge in various areas. Awarded for his contributions for the Resources Charter MemberWed 13-Nov-13 03:54 AM
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#1. "RE: SB-800 Mode"
In response to Reply # 0


San Pedro Garza García, MX
          

Choosing between i-TTL and i-TTL|BL has to do with lighting conditions, and is independent on whether the flash is on-camera or off-camera.

i-TTL is used when your flash will be the primary light source, like in the "when the light is almost black" condition you mentioned.

i-TTL|BL is used when the flash is intended as fill-in light, to soften harsh shadows, under bright ambient light in exteriors, for example.

Russ MacDonald (arkayem) wrote a darn good series of articles on flash, mostly based on the SB-800 and can be found here

Have a great time
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aspenextreme Silver Member Nikonian since 04th Oct 2011Wed 13-Nov-13 11:28 AM
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#2. "RE: SB-800 Mode"
In response to Reply # 1


Marietta, GA, US
          

Thanks for the reply and i will check out the series because the flash is relatively new.

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

  

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Arkayem Moderator Awarded for his high level skills in flash photography Charter MemberWed 13-Nov-13 03:15 PM
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#3. "RE: SB-800 Mode"
In response to Reply # 1


Richmond Hill, GA (Savannah), US
          

>Choosing between i-TTL and i-TTL|BL has to do with lighting
>conditions, and is independent on whether the flash is
>on-camera or off-camera.
>
>i-TTL is used when your flash will be the primary light
>source, like in the "when the light is almost black"
>condition you mentioned.
>
>i-TTL|BL is used when the flash is intended as fill-in light,
>to soften harsh shadows, under bright ambient light in
>exteriors, for example.
>
>Russ MacDonald (arkayem) wrote a darn good series of articles
>on flash, mostly based on the SB-800 and can be found
>here

JRP is exactly correct, but I would like to add one more critical item.

When you use TTL-BL for fill in bright ambient conditions, the camera internal meter must be centered. This is usually best accomplished by using camera P mode. If you don't center the camera meter, you will usually get lower flash power than you expect when using TTL-BL.

The bottom line is that you should probably NOT use TTL-BL when using camera Manual mode, because you have to center the meter manually for each shot.

Russ
Nikonian Team Member
Russell MacDonald Photography
Nikon CLS Practical Guide

  

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aspenextreme Silver Member Nikonian since 04th Oct 2011Wed 13-Nov-13 03:34 PM
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#4. "RE: SB-800 Mode"
In response to Reply # 3


Marietta, GA, US
          

I read through some of the articles and it looks lie I-ttl Bl should only be used in certain situations. also, by reading I probably will set it up to A mode so I don't get the pre-flash that tends to make some people blink. I definitely have a lot more to learn and this will ultimately come from using it a lot more.

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

  

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Arkayem Moderator Awarded for his high level skills in flash photography Charter MemberWed 13-Nov-13 03:54 PM
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#5. "RE: SB-800 Mode"
In response to Reply # 4


Richmond Hill, GA (Savannah), US
          

>I read through some of the articles and it looks lie I-ttl Bl
>should only be used in certain situations. also, by reading I
>probably will set it up to A mode so I don't get the pre-flash
>that tends to make some people blink. I definitely have a lot
>more to learn and this will ultimately come from using it a
>lot more.

Basically, you should use regular TTL indoors when you want the flash to provide most of the light (ie. be primary). Then, you should use camera Manual at f/4 and set the shutter to make the ambient exposure 3 stops underexposed. Then, the flash will provide all of the exposure and it will also freeze motion.

The preflash rarely bothers anyone. I wouldn't worry about it. The regular TTL mode works much better than the flash A mode in most situations. Also be careful with terminology and say either "Flash A mode" or "Camera A mode" to keep things clear.

Russ
Nikonian Team Member
Russell MacDonald Photography
Nikon CLS Practical Guide

  

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Chris Platt Silver Member Nikonian since 30th Sep 2012Fri 15-Nov-13 04:18 AM
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#7. "RE: SB-800 Mode"
In response to Reply # 4


Newburg, US
          

>I read through some of the articles and it looks lie I-ttl Bl
>should only be used in certain situations. also, by reading I
>probably will set it up to A mode so I don't get the pre-flash
>that tends to make some people blink. I definitely have a lot
>more to learn and this will ultimately come from using it a
>lot more.

Although it is quite rare, some people with quick reflexes may start to blink in response to the pre-flashes, but as Russ said, it is much better to stick with TTL. Make sure you don't have red-eye reduction mode on. A slow shutter speed and rear curtain sync will increase the time between pre-flash and the exposure flash, so if you have a blinker, you may want to make sure you aren't using rear curtain sync. Instead of setting your flash in A mode, you might try using FV-Lock (p 198 of D90 manual). FV lock is normally assigned to the FN button. When you press the FN button, the pre-flashes will be emitted to determine the proper flash output and then lock that output for subsequent exposures. If your subject did blink in response to the pre-flash, you can wait to make sure her eyes are open and then take the shot, or several shots without additional pre-flashes.

Visit my gallery.

  

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Arkayem Moderator Awarded for his high level skills in flash photography Charter MemberWed 13-Nov-13 04:04 PM
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#6. "RE: SB800 Mode"
In response to Reply # 0


Richmond Hill, GA (Savannah), US
          

>I apologize if this has been posted before but I just got a
>SB800 used and have been testing it out. Currently I am using
>it when I am shooting on manual mode and use iTTL-bl. I know
>how to set the flash to M mode and adjust the power.
>
>What is the best one to use off and on the camera?
>Also, what is the best mode at night when the light is almost
>black.

In total darkness, use regular TTL and the camera in Manual mode. Make sure to use AF-S (Single Servo Focus Mode), so the red focus assist light will come on.

>And how do I get the flash to not flash the red light which
>makes my daughter squint prior to taking the shot.

That red light is the focus assist lamp, and if it is dark enough that the red light comes on, it is probably needed, and won't focus if you turn it off. When I shoot in dark conditions, when I can't see anything in the viewfinder, I half-press the shutter and use the red light to aim the camera.

>Just looking for some practical advise and thanks in advance.

Russ
Nikonian Team Member
Russell MacDonald Photography
Nikon CLS Practical Guide

  

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