luckyphoto Port Charlotte, US Nikonian since 27th Dec 2010
Thu 25-Apr-13 11:57 AM
#1. "RE: Best flash to avoid 'Flash Shadow'" In response to Reply # 0
Others can provide more specific information about the SB 400, but I can at least tell you that the shadow is caused by the lens blocking some of the light from the internal flash, That's because the internal flash sits low on the camera. If you use a SB 400, which sits much higher, the lens will not block the light.
Your internal flash is good for 10-12ft or about 3-4M. The SB 400 should extend that to 60ft. or about 20M.
I would suggest you look at the SB700 as an option. The SB 400 is a basic flash and limited with respect to off camera flash capabilities.
Hope that helps.
"Red is gray and yellow white, but we decide which is right ....and which is an illusion"
Luke_Miller Rural Virginia, US Nikonian since 19th Apr 2006
Thu 25-Apr-13 12:17 PM
#2. "RE: Best flash to avoid 'Flash Shadow'" In response to Reply # 1
Often it is the lens hood casting the shadow rather than the lens itself. I always remove the hood if using the built in flash.
Going to an external flash is the best option. I second the recommendation of the SB-700 (or the SB-600 if you can find one). A flash that can tilt and swivel permits bounce flash which produces much softer light.
#5. "RE: Best flash to avoid 'Flash Shadow'" In response to Reply # 3
>I don't use hoods much. but with the 16-35VR there's a >dreadful shadow even without the hood. Of course, at 16mm it's >at its most pronounced.
While the 16-35mm is not listed in the D700 Users Manual (If I remember correctly it was introduced after the D700) though the 17-35mm the minimum focal length is listed at 28mm with a minimum range of 1m.
>I know WHY it happens, but I dont want to buy a flash and then >find it STILL happens!
>I heard the SB-400 is litle better than the pop-up, >power-wise. Is this correct?
>I don't mind buying a SB-600. Probably ger a second hand one >on ebay as I don't expect to use it often. > >I'll need to see in what way a SB-700 differs....
The SB-700 has Commander mode built-in, the SB-600 does not have Commander mode. It also automatically adjusts the coverage from FX to DX when using a DX body to maximize efficiency. Both can be used as wireless remotes controlled by the built-in Speedlights that have Commander mode.
#10. "RE: Best flash to avoid 'Flash Shadow'" In response to Reply # 3
Since after moving to the D600 and coupled it with larger lenses (ie. 16-35mm), the SB-400 flash w/ diffuser couldn't cut it any longer. Even as fill flash w/ diffuser, the SB-400 still gave harsh lighting with the dreaded flash shadowing. SB-400 is very limited to what you can do with it being low powered and lighting angle can be only moved upward in few degree segments up to 90deg ceiling bounce shot.
I have seen many examples of great shots leveraging flash lighting and would like to make some shots like those. I mainly used the SB-400 as a fill flash but now, I went ahead and bought a more advanced third party flash for cost perspective. Unfortunately, Nikon flashes are too expensive for what I currently use flash photography for.
#4. "RE: Best flash to avoid 'Flash Shadow'" In response to Reply # 0
In each camera Users Manual at the end of the Lens Compatibility section under Built-in Flash the focal length limitations for various lenses to prevent shadows (without the Lens Hood).
I would recommend adding a Nikon SB-700 or SB-600 to your kit instead of the SB-400. The SB-400 is only slightly more powerful than the built-in Speedlight, it can only tilt vertically for bounce and since it has a very low profile it is more likely to cause Red-Eye than the higher profile of an SB-700 or SB-600. In addition the SB-400 is limited to on camera use only. in addition to the extra power, range, and the ability to tilt and rotate for muchmore control of bounce flash, the SB-600 and SB-700 can be used as i-TTL wireless remotes.
#7. "RE: Best flash to avoid 'Flash Shadow'" In response to Reply # 6
>I think I'll get a SB-600 or 700 depending on how the bidding >goes.
>I take it Commander mode is some sort of radio link twixt >camera & Flash? Dont bother replying- I'll find out
In Commander mode the Commander uses light (flashes) pulses to instruct the remote Speedlights to fire at the appropriate power level before the shutter opens. Then it fires a triggering flash to fire the remotes in sync with the shutter.
>These two must be pretty powerful units- at least if the price >is anything to go by!
Both have about 1 full stop more power than the SB-400 and about 2 full stops more if when the flash head is at the maximum zoom position.
gkaiseril Chicago, US Nikonian since 28th Oct 2005
Fri 26-Apr-13 04:26 PM
#8. "RE: Best flash to avoid 'Flash Shadow'" In response to Reply # 0
You need to raise the flash tube higher either by buying a taller flash unit or getting a flash bracket and an SC17/28/29 or similar cord to extend the electrical contacts of the hot shoe. Raising the flash tube above will raise the FOV of the flash to be above the lens barrel or lens hood.
gfinlayson Maidenhead, UK Nikonian since 24th Jan 2011
Sat 04-May-13 10:53 PM
#9. "RE: Best flash to avoid 'Flash Shadow'" In response to Reply # 0 Sat 04-May-13 10:55 PM by gfinlayson
The best thing you can do is get your flash off the camera, either by using an external speedlite controlled via CLS from the on-camera flash, by using a TTL cord, or even using a cheap manual flash optically triggered by the on-board flash.
Off-camera flash will eliminate the lens/lens hood shadow, give better control over shadows an avoid red-eye when photographing people.