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Forums Lobby MASTER YOUR TOOLS - Hardware & Software Nikon Speedlights & Lighting topic #59246
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Subject: "Better Beamer technique" Previous topic | Next topic
Vlad_IT Silver Member Nikonian since 21st Sep 2011Thu 30-Aug-12 09:18 PM
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"Better Beamer technique"


US
          

Folks, hi.

I need to ask for a favor, as my experience with the Speedlights is quite limited.

Iím trying to find out what would be the proper techniques for using Better Beamers and if the flash range can be extended by using aluminum foil (as one of the quick DIY options).

A little bit of background. Iím planning to go on a remote island for birding this Saturday/Sunday (depending on a weather). My main setup will be D7000, Sigma 50-500 OS, GT5540LS, Q20 and Sidekick and I will have with me SB-910 as well. I also have a FX-6 better beamer on order to be delivered tomorrow, right before the event. Iím not sure if Iíll be using flash at all but itís better be ready than sorry. At least the flash can put some sparks in the birdís eyes and that would be a nice addition to the image (at least as I see it).

From the pictures the better beamer is nothing but two black side panels holding flat sheet magnifying glass without top and bottom sides. The following questions are in my mind that I cannot figure out on my own:

1. Why are the sides made not from reflective materials? As far as I suspect the reflective material will preserve more light to go through the magnifying glass. Are any possible drawbacks if Iíll cover the sides with aluminum foil? Any thought on that?

2. Why there are no top and bottom sides? I suspect it is done for better ventilation of the flash head to prevent the flash from overheating. But at least the half if the BB that closer to the lens probably can be made reflective from all four sides, leaving open vents right next to the flash head. (At least as I see it)

3. But my main question would be on how to properly use the better beamer. In matrix metering mode the flash output power mostly controlled by the distance to the object. The better beamer brings modification into Nikonís power output algorithm. Potentially at the shorter distances the object can be overexposed. So what to do in such cases? Remove camera from matrix metering mode? CW or spot? Put SB910 into TTL mode instead of TTL-BL?

Any suggestions and explanations are appreciated. I do not want just the beginnerís luck Ė I want to understand how to control the lighting situation, especially in tough HDR situation.

Thanks you in advance,
Vlad

  

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rb4good Silver Member Nikonian since 22nd May 2006Sat 01-Sep-12 07:15 PM
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#1. "RE: Better Beamer technique"
In response to Reply # 0


Rocky Hill, US
          

Here is the advice I was given by one of the best bird photogs on this site. Reply #4 in the given link. Should go out and practice as well as some deviation is sometimes required.

http://www.nikonians.org/forums/dcboard.php?az=set_threaded_mode&forum=161&topic_id=90536&prev_page=show_topic&gid=90536#90905

Rick

  

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AndrewFromCanada Silver Member Charter MemberSun 02-Sep-12 10:16 PM
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#2. "RE: Better Beamer technique"
In response to Reply # 1


Victoria, CA
          


To the aforementioned:
1. Set the camera to FP high speed sync.
2. Set the flash to TTL (not TTL BL).
3. Dial in -1.7 EV.
4. Set the flash head to 50mm.
5. Now forget about the flash: shoot as you normally would.

I would add: calibrate the aim by shooting some test shots at roughly the distance you are expecting your subject to be at. I find the BB doesn't sit perfectly and you may need to tweak it up or down a bit to get the aim just right.

  

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Vlad_IT Silver Member Nikonian since 21st Sep 2011Sun 02-Sep-12 10:21 PM
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#3. "RE: Better Beamer technique"
In response to Reply # 2


US
          

Thank you, guys. The BB was not delivered on Friday, so i'll try it on next workshop.

Best regards,
Vlad

  

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Vlad_IT Silver Member Nikonian since 21st Sep 2011Wed 05-Sep-12 01:43 AM
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#4. "RE: Better Beamer technique"
In response to Reply # 3


US
          

I got the BB today - everything is very simple - setting zoom on the head to 50mm - just points all light to the lens- there is nothing to bounce and that's why there is no reason for reflective side or any other nonsense i've been asking.

Thanks all.
Vlad

  

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Forums Lobby MASTER YOUR TOOLS - Hardware & Software Nikon Speedlights & Lighting topic #59246 Previous topic | Next topic