Sunshade pattern and instructions for CoolPix 990
Hi Alan et al,
I just finished making a template page with instructions for making your own folding sunshade for the Nikon CoolPix 990's LCD panel. It's easy to make with inexpensive materials.
Here's a link to the PDF file on my personal web page:
I'd be happy to donate this artwork to the Nikonians site if Bo would like to make a permanent link. Let me know if I can improve the instructions or design.
Salt Lake City, UT
#1. "RE: Sunshade pattern and instructions for CoolPix 990" | In response to Reply # 0
bgs Charter MemberFri 18-Aug-00 07:03 PM
LAST EDITED ON Aug-18-00 AT 09:05 PM (GMT)
Great! Thanks for the contribution - Very professional indeed. The PDF file is now located in our Guides section:
Bo (Nikonian in the Black Forest/Germany)
My profile and My gallery
#2. "RE: Sunshade pattern and instructions for CoolPix 990" | In response to Reply # 0
AlanC Basic MemberSat 19-Aug-00 03:52 PM
An equivalent wouldn't work on the D1 though - you'd end up cutting your nose off with it.
Still, I guess that's one way of stopping the otherwise inevitable smears on the LCD's anti-glare coating...
#3. "RE: Sunshade pattern and instructions for CoolPix 990" | In response to Reply # 2
Thu 24-Aug-00 02:34 PM
With the D1 you have a great TTL viewfinder packed with information. However, with the CoolPix 990, the optical viewfinder is little better than one on a disposable camera. The LCD on the CoolPix is the only way to do manual focus and it's critical to the basic operation and setup of the camera.
Before you resort to a nosectomy, perhaps I should design a "nose mitten" for D1 owners. In art school, I made a copper nose in honor of the eccentric astronomer Tycho Brahe (who lost his nose in a duel and wore various stylish metal noses).
#4. "Reflection" | In response to Reply # 0
Many thanks for the pattern! I just finished making mine and do have a question.
When I used the shade, there is this reflection of my eye that I see more than the image. Is there some kind of technique to using the shade that I'm missing?
Would appreciate your help!
#5. "RE: Reflection" | In response to Reply # 4
Mon 23-Oct-00 01:52 PM
I'm glad the pattern is useful for you.
As far as the eye reflection, how close are you viewing the LCD? I usually hold the camera a foot or more away when I'm using the LCD. I get reflections too, but they are usually from clothing or the sky. Nikon should look at an antiglare surface for future cameras.
Wearing a hat is often helpful for me when I'm using a digital camera or vidcam. With the CoolPix you can often find a better angle to view using the twist body to minimize the reflections. I wonder if sunglasses would eliminate the highlight from your eye...
Unfortunately, the shade is limited in how much it can help with glare. There is an aftermarket viewfinder called Xtendaview I've seen that has a lens eyepiece and an aluminum housing that you can mount to the back of your camera. It's bulky and I don't know how well it works, but it may be an option to consider.
Here's some info: http://www.steves-digicams.com/xtendaview_pro.html
The EagleEye site: http://www.eagleeyeuk.com/
#6. "RE: Reflection" | In response to Reply # 5
Sat 04-Nov-00 01:52 AM
The Xtendaview looks good! I just ordered one. Let's see what happens.
It seems kind of odd that the digicam camera manufacturers have not found a more elegant solution to this problem. Surely, there must be a better way...
#7. "RE: Reflection" | In response to Reply # 6
Thu 16-Nov-00 09:14 PM
LAST EDITED ON Nov-16-00 AT 11:22 PM (GMT)
I just received the Xtendaview. Works great! Very nice magnification of the viewfinder. Unfortunately, it's been cloudy and rainy so haven't had a chance to try it in the sun. Don't see why it shouldn't solve the glare problem though.
It is kind of bulky but it is light. The velcro does a surprisingly good job of keeping it attached. So, while together with the TC3ED teleconverter, it makes for a very unwieldy bundle, it seems to be a better solution than the sunshade.
Wish I didn't have to do this but heck, it does work as a jury-rigged solution for now.
#8. "RE: Reflection" | In response to Reply # 7
Fri 17-Nov-00 07:18 PM
Be aware that should you decide to remove the velcro for any reason, be very careful doing it. I've read reports of the adhesive pulling the finish off the camera. To minimize the risk, get the adhesive warm before gently rolling the edge with your thumb. Work it slowly and avoid grabbing the material and just pulling it off. Rubber cement thinner can be used sparingly to soften adhesives without dissolving the finish.
I'm sitting on my hands waiting for digital SLRs to come into range before spending any more money on my 990. The Olympus E-10 and (forgive me) Canon D30 are steps in the right direction.
#9. "RE: Reflection" | In response to Reply # 8
Sun 03-Dec-00 02:54 PM
Thanks BJ. Your level of knowledge never ceases to amaze me.
Speaking of glue, the rubber grip on the Coolpix fell off recently. I stuck it back on and it seems to be staying. It will probably fall off again though. We are leaving the country soon so I hesitate to send it in for service. The Nikontechs had some dire warnings about corrosive glues. Would you have any advice on which kinds of glue I can use to stick it back on?
#10. "RE: Reflection" | In response to Reply # 9
Sun 03-Dec-00 08:30 PM
I appreciate the compliment, but don't give me too much credit - I have the Google search engine and a DSL connection that fill in the blanks when I'm not sure of details.
I do use various glues for projects (especially for river rafting) and there are a couple you could try. The grip material is likely a urethane rubber. There is an expensive 3M adhesive (#3532 which you can find at http://www.nrscatalog.com/ ) that's designed specifically for bonding urethane materials. I use StaBond adhesive to repair urethane tubes in my raft (cheaper, and also available from NRS). It may not bond as well as the 3M adhesive, however.
If you want to temporarily glue the piece so you can get it fixed later by Nikon in the offical manner, use standard rubber-cement-based contact adhesive. One brand I use is Barge Cement. If you use it correctly, the volatiles will evaporate before you bond the two surfaces and it shouldn't cause any corrosion. You should be able to peel the surfaces apart later and remove any residue with rubber cement thinner.
One good place to go to find the 3M adhesive and perhaps other good alternatives is an auto body paint supply dealer. These folks usually carry all sorts of adhesive to bond stuff like this.
Good luck and mind the fumes,