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Subject: "D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added" Previous topic | Next topic
Pete_C Gold Member Nikonian since 02nd Aug 2011Wed 25-Jul-12 04:47 PM
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"D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added"
Wed 25-Jul-12 08:44 PM by Pete_C

Garden City, US
          

Hi everyone,

I am shooting with the D90 and 18-105 primarily. I have a home studio setup with an SB900 and SB700 and use the SU800 wireless commander. My problem is that all of the photos look properly exposed on the LCD but are quite a bit unexposed when I upload them. I realize the LCD is not going to give a perfect preview, but the difference is so great that the photos are almost unusable. I upped the flash exposure compensation on both units which helped, but maybe there is something I am missing? I also took some in raw, which I figured would give me greater latitude, but I couldn't even get those to look right.

I am taking pictures of guitars, I can upload some if you want to see....

Thanks!
Pete

EDIT: Here are some samples. The first sunburst guitar is okay, but still at least 1 stop darker than it looked on my LCD. The second of the blonde guitar looked fine on the LCD. In fact, I could see all the detail around the headstock and the tuning machines were easily distinguished from the background. I am not sure why this is happening but I don't think it's user error. I never noticed this kind of difference before and have been shooting with the D90 for two years now.

Also, I think there is a firmware update. Maybe I should try that?? Thanks! Any help is appreciated.








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Replies to this topic
Subject Author Message Date ID
Reply message RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added
Covey22 Moderator
25th Jul 2012
1
Reply message RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added
Pete_C Gold Member
25th Jul 2012
3
Reply message RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added
aolander Silver Member
25th Jul 2012
2
Reply message RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added
Pete_C Gold Member
25th Jul 2012
4
     Reply message RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added
aolander Silver Member
25th Jul 2012
5
          Reply message RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added
Pete_C Gold Member
26th Jul 2012
6
               Reply message RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added
aolander Silver Member
26th Jul 2012
8
               Reply message RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added
Pete_C Gold Member
26th Jul 2012
10
               Reply message RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added
Arkayem Moderator
22nd Aug 2012
11
Reply message RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added
Bluewaterhooker0
26th Jul 2012
7
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Pete_C Gold Member
26th Jul 2012
9
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WD4MLA Silver Member
24th Aug 2012
12
Reply message RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added
Arkayem Moderator
24th Aug 2012
13
     Reply message RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added
Pete_C Gold Member
24th Aug 2012
14

Covey22 Moderator Expert in various fields including aviation photography Awarded for his contributions to the Resources and The Nikonian eZine Charter MemberWed 25-Jul-12 09:30 PM
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#1. "RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added"
In response to Reply # 0


US
          

What does the histo on the camera show when you preview them on the LCD? If it's reflecting the -1EV, then respect the histo and disregard the appearance of the preview itself.

Also, most photos with good contrast often benefit from a Levels operation in post, this is true even if you've lit the the scene sufficiently.

For this type of static photography, I would also look at your metering choices. Since you have the luxury of the subject not going anywhere, try spot-metering and CW to see if you get closer "out-of-camera" results.

"Toodle-loo from Covey22!"

-Armando
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My Plan:

Get out of the car.
Get closer to the subject.
Pick the right mid-tone this time.

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Pete_C Gold Member Nikonian since 02nd Aug 2011Wed 25-Jul-12 09:49 PM
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#3. " RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added"
In response to Reply # 1


Garden City, US
          

Hi Armando-

Thanks for the tips. The histogram did show the underexposure. I have to pay more attention to it!

I will try spot metering and CW on the next batch. I also had the ISO at 400. Do you think I should try upping it to 800 for the next ones?

I am shooting into umbrellas with the two flashes, and had to set them both to +0.3 to get better results.

Generally I adjust the levels and brightness/contrast but these last ones seemed to need a lot more work than usual.

Appreciate the help,
Pete

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aolander Silver Member Nikonian since 15th Sep 2006Wed 25-Jul-12 09:45 PM
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#2. "RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added"
In response to Reply # 0


Nevis, US
          

As you stated yourself, you can't rely on the LCD to determine exposure. The LCD is going to look fairly bright when shooting in an inside studio. The histograms for both of these photos are similar. The lighter colored guitar may be causing the camera to underexpose some. Use the histogram on your camera to determine where the exposures are at. Neither shot is unusable, but could stand a little more exposure.

Just to add, I can see the detail in the head of the guitar in the bottom image. Is your monitor calibrated, or has something changed with it?

Alan

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Pete_C Gold Member Nikonian since 02nd Aug 2011Wed 25-Jul-12 09:54 PM
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#4. "RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added"
In response to Reply # 2


Garden City, US
          

Hi Alan,

No my monitor is not calibrated. On my screen I cannot see the tuning machines at all on the top guitar.

Do you have a suggestion for a calibration software? I have been avoiding dealing with this issue...

Yes, I definitely need to stop relying on the LCD screen. I was also thinking of getting an Eye-fi card so I can send the photos directly to my screen. Not sure how well they work though.

In general, I am looking to get better results since I am going to be doing quite a lot of product photography like these. I usually shoot in jpeg, but any tips in general would be appreciated!

I uploaded some better shots to my gallery, not sure if they are there yet but feel free to take a look and critique!

Thanks for the help,
Pete

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aolander Silver Member Nikonian since 15th Sep 2006Wed 25-Jul-12 11:53 PM
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#5. "RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added"
In response to Reply # 4
Thu 26-Jul-12 12:05 AM by aolander

Nevis, US
          

Your gallery photos look good! Exposure looks fine to me, too.

X-rite makes several products. The ColorMunki is one of their calibration products. I have an older Eye-1 Display 2 device.

I can see all the tuning knobs (sorry if that's the wrong terminology). They don't contrast with the background a lot, but I can definitely see all the parts.

You need to make sure that the flashes have enough power when used with the umbrellas at the distance and aperture you are shooting at. One of the photos was shot at f/5 which I would think would be wide enough, but I don't know the rest of the details, i.e. distance.

If you want less detail in the back drop you could increase the distance between it and the guitar. You can use a fairly wide aperture and keep the face of the guitar in focus when shooting the guitar straight on. The back drop would then be softer as the DOF wouldn't include it.

Alan

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Pete_C Gold Member Nikonian since 02nd Aug 2011Thu 26-Jul-12 03:19 AM
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#6. "RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added"
In response to Reply # 5


Garden City, US
          

Thanks Alan. I will look up the calibration software you suggested. Hey how did you get the exposure info from the image? Glad you like the photos.

Pete

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aolander Silver Member Nikonian since 15th Sep 2006Thu 26-Jul-12 12:55 PM
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#8. "RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added"
In response to Reply # 6
Thu 26-Jul-12 12:56 PM by aolander

Nevis, US
          

To read the metadata in your image, I saved it to my desktop and dragged and dropped it into "ExifTool".

http://www.sno.phy.queensu.ca/~phil/exiftool/

Alan

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Pete_C Gold Member Nikonian since 02nd Aug 2011Thu 26-Jul-12 08:07 PM
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#10. "RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added"
In response to Reply # 8


Garden City, US
          

>To read the metadata in your image, I saved it to my desktop
>and dragged and dropped it into "ExifTool".
>
>http://www.sno.phy.queensu.ca/~phil/exiftool/

Thanks. I downloaded the tool but couldn't figure out how to use it. It works in the terminal right?

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Arkayem Moderator Awarded for his high level skills in flash photography Charter MemberWed 22-Aug-12 10:07 PM
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#11. "RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added"
In response to Reply # 6


Richmond Hill, GA (Savannah), US
          

>Hey how did you get the exposure info from the
>image?

I recommend the free IExif add-on from Opanda. It attaches to your Windows IE browser, and you just right-click on any jpeg image you see on your browser and select View IExif from the menu. It shows you all exif data that is attached to the jpeg image. It will also show you and GPS data.

Very simple to use and reliable. I've been using it for about 10 years (upgrading it regularly as upgrades become available)

Download it free at http://www.opanda.com/en/iexif/download.htm.

There is also IExifPro that you have to buy, so be careful to select the free IExif.

Also, I noticed that it doesn't mention Windows 7 in the list of compatible operating systems, but that's what I am using, and it works perfectly. There is a separate download for Firefox, but I don't use that.

Russ
Retired Professional Photographer
Nikonian Moderator
Russell MacDonald Photography
Nikon CLS Practical Guide

  

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Bluewaterhooker0 Registered since 31st Jan 2009Thu 26-Jul-12 04:35 AM
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#7. "RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added"
In response to Reply # 0


Tampa, US
          

I have to agree with the comment that exposure is not that far off. I think both shots are suffering a lack of punch, or contrast. I played with them on really basic adjustment, and posted.
The second shot is also lacking in even lighting between foreground and background (of the guitar to the far end of the neck), in addition to the fact that you are shooting the black tuning machines against a 'black' background. The comment about seperating the guitar from the background will gain you some increase in the 'blackness' of the background, and I think improve the overall shot quality. But, you will still need to pay attention to the light hitting the tuners. Since they are black, the best you can do is make sure they have specular or reflected highlights, to accentuate them from the black background. Don't know if you have modeling lights of any sort, but that would facilitate the fine tuning of lights.
I would play with the contrast adjustment (increase) in your menu function. I don't have a D90, so don't know what adjustment that is, but D80 has it, so I'm sure a D90 does as well.





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Attachment #1, (jpg file)
Attachment #2, (jpg file)

  

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Pete_C Gold Member Nikonian since 02nd Aug 2011Thu 26-Jul-12 01:48 PM
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#9. "RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added"
In response to Reply # 7


Garden City, US
          

Hi, thanks for the input. Here are two that I edited. Basically I adjust the levels, contrast and brightness. My problem with the two I posted previously is that there is detail lost in the shadows that can't be retrieved, or at least I couldn't get it back through levels adjustment.

Sorry, I have a few more questions that I hope some of you can help with. I know I am going off topic here but appreciate any assistance!

1.Do you think RAW is the way to go? Basically, I edit each image for contrast, brightness and levels anyway, so perhaps this is a better idea. The problem is that I need to give a CD of the images to the web developer and figure they will be turned into JPEGs anyway.

2. Some photos will be used for print as well, so do you think RAW to TIFF is a better option for this? Or RAW to something else? I'm not sure what the best file type is for quality and color detail, but thought TIFF was preferable to JPEG.

3. If I shoot RAW, is one converter better than another? I downloaded the Adobe converter but have not tried it out yet....

4. I am using a two speedlite setup with one on the high front left of the guitar and one on the right, lower and aimed toward the side to create a highlight on the edge of the body. They are aimed into umbrellas but I was wondering if another flash behind the guitar or perhaps focused on the headstock might balance things out? Any input on setup is appreciated.

Thanks so much for your help! This forum is amazing!







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Attachment #1, (jpg file)
Attachment #2, (jpg file)

  

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WD4MLA Silver Member Nikonian since 10th Nov 2002Fri 24-Aug-12 01:36 PM
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#12. "RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added"
In response to Reply # 0


Sylva, US
          

Just a quick basic question that I did not see covered in the answers, but your problem sounded just like the one I had when I first got my D80 and SB-800.

Are you using TTL or TTL-BL? I was using TTL-BL inside and seeing the same thing you are describing. I switched to TTL and solved the problem.

You most likely have this covered, but I just thought I would throw it out there.

Good Luck!

Jerry Jaynes
Great Smoky Mountains
of North Carolina

http://www.flickr.com/photos/by_jerry_jaynes/

  

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Arkayem Moderator Awarded for his high level skills in flash photography Charter MemberFri 24-Aug-12 02:01 PM
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#13. "RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added"
In response to Reply # 12
Fri 24-Aug-12 02:05 PM by Arkayem

Richmond Hill, GA (Savannah), US
          

>Are you using TTL or TTL-BL? I was using TTL-BL inside and
>seeing the same thing you are describing. I switched to TTL
>and solved the problem.

This is correct, and a VERY important point.

TTL-BL is for adding fill to an exposure that is primarily from ambient light. If you use the flash in TTL-BL mode, and there is no ambient contribution, the image will usually be dark by one or two stops.

When you want the flash to supply all of the exposure, you should use regular TTL. Then the flash will fire at the proper power to supply all of the exposure.

Also, when using regular TTL, the camera should be in Manual mode with the shutter set high enough to eliminate the ambient contribution and the aperture should be around f/5.6. Don't use a small aperture like f/16, or you may run out of flash power to fully expose the subject.

Russ
Retired Professional Photographer
Nikonian Moderator
Russell MacDonald Photography
Nikon CLS Practical Guide

  

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Pete_C Gold Member Nikonian since 02nd Aug 2011Fri 24-Aug-12 06:54 PM
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#14. "RE: D90 exposure from LCD to computer - Photos added"
In response to Reply # 13


Garden City, US
          

Hey Guys,

Thanks for these comments. I was using it in TTL-BL. Next batch I am going straight TTL and using the manual setting you suggested, Russ.

Great advice as usual, thanks so much! I will post a few from the next batch too.

Pete

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