> I was actually in manual mode on the flash, I tried to set the flash on TTL and meter the picture but I would end up with a shutter speed of 4 seconds or more.
Several things here.
First, it's obvious that you have set either slow flash sync or rear sync (which implies slow sync). This is a camera setting. Otherwise, your maximum shutter speed with flash defaults to 1/60th. (This assumes that the camera can tell that flash is engaged, which seems true since I see that it knew that flash fired in the EXIF.) You've changed something - I'd set it back to default for now.
Second, you need to know that you have two entirely separate meter readings occurring with flash. One is the ambient exposure - that's what you are seeing in the viewfinder. And it's what is seeming to drive you to 4 sec exposure. It's pretty dark here: 4 sec, f/5.6, ISO 100 is EV 3, which is a couple of stops less than "night time home interiors." When you set regular flash mode (I don't know how to do it on this camera), you will see drastic underexposure. From 4 seconds to 1/60th is eight full stops. Big problem with no flash - you'd get a completely black frame. But with flash, not so much. Because the second meter reading is done after the shutter is released and the lens stops down. Once that happens, the flash fires a pre-flash metering pulse, and uses the return from that to set the TTL (or TTL-BL, but let's leave that for the moment) exposure. The TTL adjusts the power output to expose the subject "properly" - which might be quite a bit, as it would be in this case.
When you set the flash exposure mode (on the flash) to manual, it probably is just firing at full power unless you've done the rather laborious calculations of focus distance, guide number, etc and then set the manual output for correct exposure. I know how to do it, but I never do since it's such a pain in the lower posterior. So since you probably fired at full power, you were just lucky that the exposure came out nicely.
Flash is a particularly complex subject once you get past the almost trivial "pop it up and press the button" - but once you learn it, it becomes a very powerful tool for lighting a subject the way you want it to be lit, and it allows you to get what you want, not just what happens to be available. It's not a small difference: it's an active role, not a passive one.
_____ Brian... a bicoastal Nikonian and Team Member
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