> I can't figure see how 1/1000 or higher could ever be used, the photos are too dark.
Not always. Outdoors in daylight it's easy to use 1/1000th or higher, especially with a faster lens, but not just that way. Also, if a faster shutter speed is required or desired, turning up the ISO is a viable way to achieve that. On Sunday I was shooting at 1/4000th at f/2.8, so even with a slow lens that would still be 1/1000th, and that was at base ISO (200 on my camera). And of course it's also possible that one might using, say, an f/1.4 lens - in that light I'd have needed 1/8000th and a neutral density filter to be shooting at ISO 200.
> speedlight to freeze the movement. Can someone explain this setup
If the flash is the primary (or only!) source of light, it will control the action-freezing, rather than the shutter speed. For example, in a typical indoor environment where the ambient exposure is, say, 1/30th, f/4 at ISO 200, you would see movement blur for anything moving quickly. But flash duration for Nikon flashes ranges from about 1/1000th at the slowest to almost 1/50000th at fastest. If the exposure would have been dark or black without the flash - say, 1/60th, f/5.6, ISO 200 instead - the blur might literally be there, but not visible, since the subject will only be seen in the light of the flash unit, about 1/1000th or quicker.
> hardware needed to work with the D60?
D60 with a flash unit - that's it. For a water droplet you might also need a way to trigger the shutter/flash automatically, I'm not sure. I've never done that myself. But certainly with the hummingbird, you shouldn't need much equipment at all. The bigger trick will be to get the AF to lock on in low light.
_____ Brian... a bicoastal Nikonian and Team Member
My gallery is online. Comments and critique welcomed any time!