> 100%, I think, would only be possible where there was no movement involved allowing a free choice of apertures and shutter speeds with either no skies or no dark shadows.
Or you can bump up the ISO. And perhaps there is room for improvement in your hand-holding technique (this is usually true of most beginners).
With the skies, you can often use a graduated ND filter.
> ND2 filter
I'd suggest just using the exposure compensation feature - you'll get the same exposure, but you won't compromise the AF system's light.
> narrow the range
That's what a graduated ND is for. Not a perfect solution, but a very workable one for many situations.
> Does your expensive camera allow you to adjust any of these parameters?
A D3 has more exposure latitude to begin with, and more importantly the lower inherent noise of its sensor allows significantly more latitude to edit the shadows without creating noise problems. But basically I am using the same techniques I'm describing to you: graduated NDs, HDR software, exposure compensation, sometimes spot metering and sometimes combined with the Zone System.
Later models (not just my D3) allow easy access to noise-free higher ISOs: I can shoot at ISO 1600 and get almost as clean an image as you've got here at ISO 200, and even 6400 is pretty clean.
_____ Brian... a bicoastal Nikonian and Team Member
My gallery is online. Comments and critique welcomed any time!