I recently found a great article about shooting birds in flight at:
http://mikeatkinson.net/Tutorial-9-Photographing-Birds-in-Flight.htm

However, the article is written by a Canon shooter with little to no reference to Nikon gear. I am looking for great articles on shooting BIF with Nikon gear and specifically the D800/e.

Do any of you have good references for such Nikon articles?

I am specially looking for tips on how to use the following to get the best D800 results:
- Focus points: 9, 21, 51 or 3D tracking
- AF-On button versus shutter button to activate auto focus
- Focus tracking with lock on set to long or short
- VR on or off with 200-400mm zoom using Wimberley head

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Hi Larry, this sounds fun for a test to try my new Nikon TC 20E III Converter with my 70 200 Vr II and D800E. We have Snowy Egret, Pelicans and many other birds were I live.
I have free time today and will go out and shoot most of the day. I use the AF-on button and VR hand held so should be fun to see what I come up with. I will post the photos later tonight.

I have been out shooting a red-tailed hawk behind my house for several days using my 200-400mm and 1.4X TC. I am finding that using the AF-On button for focus takes a lot of coordination. I have used AF-On now for several years and it works fine for static shots...like landscapes where I can focus and recompose. However, with fast moving birds, there are just too many things changing at once and my fingers get lost pushing buttons. I may try using the shutter button for focus today, go to 9 points AF and go with long delay for lock on.

I am trying to reduce variables and increase keepers. I have given up on manual focus. That just added more variables.

I am not sure if VR helps or hinders. It definitely improves sharpness for static shots. I have proven that using my FoCal testing. Just not sure it does the same for moving targets when I am panning.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

I'm also interested in such info.

From various readings, here is what I got for D800:

Speed: 1/2500 ideally, min of 1/1500
Avoid busy backgrounds
AF-C and release priority
AF-C delay should be short
51-point dynamic area AF is recommended by Nikon, but I would rather go with 9 or 21 point tracking

Being away from home for a long period, I have not really had the opportunities to test these. I'll do it once back home in spring.

Regards,

Yvan
Quebec Nikonian
http://yvanbedardphotonature.com

Holy Smokes. I just want to thank you for posting something other than "My D800 gave me a disease from Japan" type post. I'm really ready to move on.

Thanks, Beck

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

Although my first four digital cameras lacked an AF-ON button, I found it quite natural to use it almost the first time I tried it. Maybe because it’s the digital-era equivalent of focusing manually before pressing the shutter button. I reported my experience here (see the rabbit pictures at the end of the post):

http://www.nikonians.org/forums/dcboard.php?az=set_threaded_mode&forum=157&topic_id=41379&prev_page=show_topic&gid=41379#41379

For big birds against the sky, with occasional big trees, I use 3D tracking set to slow. For small birds that are hard to distinguish from the background, I use 9 or 21 points.

Regards, Antero

Will be great to here what david says !

Thanks Pete! Good shots.

I shot about 500 frames for the past two days at the beach. I gravitated to the following settings:

-Focus tracking with lock on AF (1) short
-Af activation AF-on and shutter on
-Number of focus point 9 on

Still not sure I like them though. I will be shooting with David Hemmings of snowy owl fame early next week so I should be an "expert" by this time next week.

We shall see.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Nice good luck, should learn lots

Larry, good topic! Here are some Nikon references that I like

1 - Good article with Nikon cameras and lenses. Pre-dates the 800/E. Does include a table on Nikon Focus Modes; Includes scenarios with recommended settings including BIF

DSLR Autofocus Modes Explained
Jan 8. 2011
BY NASIM MANSUROV

http://photographylife.com/dslr-autofocus-modes-explained

2 - Good article with Nikon cameras and lenses. Pre-dates the 800/E.

How to Photograph Birds
Aug 4, 2009
BY NASIM MANSUROV

http://photographylife.com/how-to-photograph-birds

3 - Some good D800 experience here – not a tutorial

http://www.speich.net/articles/2012/05/01/using-nikon-d800-for-flying-birds/

Also, wanted to acknowledge the great shots from Pete's outing. I still don't have a decent Pelican in flt shot. Pete's bird had some serious cargo door damage though.

We may want to consider putting together experience/ what works guidance for D800/E BIF settings. My impression is we're in front of the curve for finding specific 800/E tutorials on line.

David

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

Great references! Thanks!

The following are the camera settings that I plan to figure out with the D800e for BIF while shooting with David Hemmings Monday and Tuesday:

AF Area: 9-points, 21-points, 51 points or 3D tracking
AF-C Priority Selection: Release or Release+Focus
Focus tracking with lock-on: Short or Long
AF activation: Shutter/AF-ON or AF-ON only
Metering: Matrix or spot
Shutter speed: Minimum for motion
ISO: Maximum for noise removal in post
200-400mm lens: VR on or off
TC 1.4X: on or off

I have come to some early conclusions based on your reference articles and my own shooting for the past week, but I want to compare them with David since he does this kind of shooting all the time.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Shutter speed should be as fast as possible for D800/E. Recently someone suggested that it should be 3x the normal 1/focal length. For example 1/1200 for 400mm, and for birds should be 1/1200 x 3 or 1/4000.

Another thought - what about Auto ISO with max ISO of 6400?

I haven't tried this on my D800 but will do it soon.

Juan

As a keen wildlife shooter and especially keen on birds in flight I use the same routine for a bird in flight. No matter what lens I'm using in both situations I always try and achieve between f5 and f11 I will use shutter speeds anywhere between 1/800 and 1/2000. I learnt my basic skills by taking a half day course at a birds of prey centre. The rest on here at the wildlife forums and then via articles on the web.

As an example look at the two different styles of bird shots below. The first was a slow panning shot of a Shellduck, the second a fast moving follow and click.

Richard

Nikon D7000 70-200mm f2.8 @ 1/2000 @ f5 ISO400

Nikon D7000 70-200mm f2.8 1/1000 @ f7 ISO320

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Attachment #1, (jpg file)
Attachment #2, (jpg file)

Really nice images of birds in flight, Richard. Great colors compared to what I've been able to capture, as well as great focus on birds in motion. I especially like the sense of change in flight direction you were able to capture in the hawk photo.

Your photos were captured with very different techniques, as you say. They illustrate a point I wanted to bring up about dynamic-area AF with the D800. For your Shellduck, slow panning example, you may be able to focus on a particular area of the body, even the head. For this situation, I prefer a smaller, e.g., 9-pt area AF. For the hawk example, flying faster with more direction changes, I've found that 51-pt area AF does surprisingly well, just in acquiring the target. In coming from the D7000, I was used to using small areas for AF to have tighter control of the focal points used. With the D800, I've tried 51-pts when simply acquiring the target is the primary challenge with better than expected results. This works better of course when the subject stands out against the background.

David

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

Thanks David. Those images were taken with a D7000 as you will have seen, but of course the methodology would be identical with the D800 which I have. In fact yesterday I captured the attached with the D800 and the D800 is amazing for both dynamic range and the sharpness, but subtle tones of the result. This was taken incidentally in DX crop mode, a setting shunned by many FX users who prefer to just crop. In this shot I used single point AF and panned handheld, normally I would use as you do 9 point and that was the case with my hawk image. When using the D800 for photographing BIF I use DX crop mode because I find I can concentrate more on the subject using the smaller viewfinder area. That's just me though.

I always set around -0.33 to -0.7 EV especially when photographing white birds such as Egrets, Gulls, Swans etc where the white can easily have their highlights blown. It is a credit to the D800 that in fact apart from a gentle tonal adjustment no other changes were made to this as shot image.

Nikon D800 - 300mm f4 1/1000 A f6.3 ISO200 with -0.33EV.

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Attachment #1, (jpg file)

>Great references! Thanks!
>
>The following are the camera settings that I plan to figure
>out with the D800e for BIF while shooting with David Hemmings
>Monday and Tuesday:
>
> AF Area: 9-points, 21-points, 51 points or 3D tracking
> AF-C Priority Selection: Release or Release+Focus
> Focus tracking with lock-on: Short or Long
> AF activation: Shutter/AF-ON or AF-ON only
> Metering: Matrix or spot
> Shutter speed: Minimum for motion
> ISO: Maximum for noise removal in post
> 200-400mm lens: VR on or off
> TC 1.4X: on or off
>
>I have come to some early conclusions based on your reference
>articles and my own shooting for the past week, but I want to
>compare them with David since he does this kind of shooting
>all the time.

Very interested in what you find out from David, Larry. Would be interested in clarification on a couple of points, if they coincide with your interests

#A3 Focus tracking with Lock-on. After reading Thom Hogan and Digital Darrell's books on this control there are subtleties I don't understand. This control concerns an intervening object that may cause AF to break track on your intended subject. I've set this to the default normal 'time-out' (Digital Darrell's term) and never changed it. From Thom's discussion (Pg 434) this setting may also show up as an 'inability to focus' during Continuous Release, if there are large changes in the subject's position between shots, e.g., if the subject is rapidly coming towards you.

#A1 AF-C options. My preference is Release (default), but Release + Focus is also available. Thom's book (pg 557) says this option will slow the camera down between continuous release shots (more mirror down time). This option may be helpful for low light/contrast conditions during continuous (even non-continuous) release modes. Something to try.

David

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

So far David has confirmed that AF lock on should be short and A1 should be Release+Focus.

He also recommends the smallest number of AF points (unless you have high contrast background) and using the shutter button for AF activation...not the camera back AF-On button.

This guy really knows BIF.

Of course, the proof will be in the images captured...starting tomorrow.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

I now own a BushHawk and successfully took about 700 shots today of BIF...hand held. Much easier than shooting with a tripod and Wimberley...much easier.

I highly recommend David Hemmings as a workshop leader. Great guy and very knowledgeable.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

My BIF conclusions from shooting with David:

AF Dynamic Area: 9-points
AF-C Priority Selection: Release+Focus
Focus tracking with lock-on: Short or Off
AF activation: Shutter/AF-ON
Metering: Matrix for Aperture Priority or spot for Manual
Shutter speed: Minimum for motion 1/1000 with 200-400mm handheld
ISO: Maximum for noise removal in post 1600
200-400mm lens: VR off
TC 1.4X: on or off (off for use with BushHawk for stability)

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Thanks for sharing your new field tested preferences, Larry. And,even better, they're for the D800/E. Will look forward to seeing some of your images from this outing.

I thought there were some surprises - particularly focus tracking at short or 'infinitely short'. After thinking about it, I decided you are emphasizing very fast moving subjects and discounting interference from a crossing target.

These settings could also work for continuous mode - you may have tried continuous with your new stable platform.

David

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

Larry

<and using the shutter
>button for AF activation...not the camera back AF-On button.

I'm curious to know why he recommends the shutter release for AF instead of AF-On.

John

There are just too many buttons to push in rapid succession when you separate AF and shutter when the target is moving really fast. Also, when you use the BushHawk, you have no choice. The trigger is basically a cable release. There is no way you can AF-ON and operate the trigger to capture an image. You often have 3-5 seconds of opportunity, and you have to concentrate on focus on the eyes while pulling the trigger...nothing else matters if you have the camera setup properly.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Interesting. I shoot sports (soccer, rugby, LAX, etc.) which are also fast moving but use the AF-On button almost exclusively. I find I can lock on and then release the shutter when I see what I want in the viewfinder. Whatever works. Agree with BushHawk there's no choice.

John

Brown Pelican shot with D800e using David Hemmings' suggestions:

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Attachment #1, (jpg file)

Wonderful shot, no wonder my dream lens is the 200-400mm

Richard

Visit my Nikonians gallery

I have found several good comparisons between a 300mm f/2.8 and a 200-400mm f/4.0 for BIF. If you are debating getting either, here are the references:

http://www.simonleechphotography.com/blog/gear-review-comparing-the-nikon-300mm-f2-8g-vr-to-the-nikon-200-400mm-f4g-vr/

http://photographylife.com/reviews/nikon-300mm-f2-8g-vr-ii

http://www.hickingbotham.com/reviews/nikon300200400.htm

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/post/38506283

http://photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00Y0Zi

http://nikonrumors.com/forum/topic.php?id=2403

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

+1 on capturing a beautiful image! The proof is in the pudding, as we say.

Even better, these results are an inspiration. I've decided I need a 'good' 300mm (at least) lens. My Board will not approve lens expenditures at 1+ or even 2+ x the cost of the body. I understand that lenses hold their value much better than bodies, but my Board is not swayed by that argument. That's why I need to wait for the update versions of the 300mm f/4 (extendable) or the 80-400mm (not so much).

David

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

or get a new Board. I just out vote mine.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Here is another example of a good reason to own a Nikon 200-400mm f/4.0.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Attachment #1, (jpg file)

Ahhhh another one, absolutely superb! Now folks, please stop posting these images or my thirst for the 200-400mm will get out of control. Robbing a bank is now on the agenda

Richard

Visit my Nikonians gallery

OK, last try. If this one does not break open your wallet, then you do not truly have NAS!

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Attachment #1, (jpg file)

Larry,
I am trying to decide whether to add a D800E to my D800. Could you say why you have both and how you decide when to use one vs. the other?

Ron

I bought one of the first D800 bodies that came available back in March. I used it until my first D800e arrived...I believe that was July. At the time, I was really into testing and calibrating my camera bodies with FoCal. I saw a substantially higher AF sharpness with the D800e for every lens I tested and with every test. When I looked at the test target images, I could see sharper transitions from black to white with the e. When I shot field tests, the images from the D800e had better contrast and were sharper.

As I concluded the testing, I realized I would never use the D800 when it came to a body choice for a situation because I would always know that I was going to get "less" of an image than I would get with the D800e.

It was a tough decision because of the transaction hit. but I decided to sell the D800 and buy another e. When I received the second e, I went through all of the FoCal tests again. I found that it was not as sharp as my first e copy but still substantially higher than the D800 that I just sold.

Now that I have two D800e bodies, I know that I am getting almost the same quality no matter which body I pull from the bag. However, one body did produce higher AF sharpness with the longer lens than the other, so I tend to use it with the longer lens.

I have taken thousands of shots with both bodies on two major shooting treks...landscape with NANPA and BIF with David Hemmings. I have also done a lot of landscape HDR in between. I have yet to see moire in an image.

I have found that I have to reduce my output sharpening with the D800e...sometimes half as much as I was doing with the D300 or D800...especially with HDR images.

Just for grins, I will show you below a before and after BIF image I shot with David Hemmings last week to show you how much detail you get in a D800e image that allows you to crop to extremes if you have to do so.

Here is my original best kingfisher shot done with a 200-400mm (they are shy and hard to approach):




Now here is an extreme crop of that same frame:



While I would rather have better details for the kingfisher, and I plan to on my next BIF trek to that same area, I could still use this image for illustration such as this.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Attachment #1, (jpg file)
Attachment #2, (jpg file)

Hi Larry, I have been looking at getting a Bushhawk for years and after reading your post finally decided to go ahead and get it. I am having trouble finding it in stock anywhere. I was wondering who you ordered yours from?

Ordered one from Adoroma right as the storm was hitting. Got the reply about the delay to shipping do to the storm, expected that no problem. Then I got an email that the item was back ordered and would ship in 10 days. Then I got an email saying that my order was cancelled. so after speaking to customer service and trying to see if they had a different color in stock. No Joy order cancelled.

I found another place and ordered, received an email this morning that the guy that runs that is on safari and won't be back until Nov 29th.

"Step into my world and see as I see"

My Nikonians Gallery

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

I bought one that David Hemmings had with him during the workshop...that he was using for his own shooting. He says he sells them through his trek business. You can find him at:
http://www.naturesphotoadventures.com/#!home/mainPage

By the way, the 200-400mm without the TC is about the upper limit in weight and balance for the BushHawk. I can shoot it with the TC installed, but it is a bit less stable.

David says the perfect Nikon lens to use for BIF with the BushHawk is the 300mm f2.8...but I don't have one..

Be sure to get it with the proper cable to connect to your D800.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Hi Monica.

I saw that Adorama had them for sale this morning.

JIM

Larry,
Thanks for the information on the D800E. I originally ordered the E and then changed it to the non-E. May have made a mistake there, though I do love my D800.
Also, the photos you have posted here are fantastic. And I appreciate the information on BIF shooting too.

Ron

Jim,
Thanks. I have been wanting to get one. Just placed an order with Adorama.

Ron

Oops! Now they tell me it is out of stock and on back order.

Ron

Hi Ron.

Sorry to hear that.

JIM

Nice shots larry ..was gone for a week ..looks like you found what you were looking for in Bif

Ah yes, Hawk Eyes, I did indeed.

It is amazing what you can capture when you get a few tips from an expert and go to the right places at the right times.

It works as well in photography as it does in saltwater fishing here along the Nature Coast of Florida. Until you learn the lay of the waterways and the fish, you catch nothing. Unlike photography, however, you break off skegs and destroy props until you get the hang of it.

You can see that environment at:
http://backcountryanglers.homestead.com/

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

This is a part of the last email I received from Adorama,

"We were informed by the manufacturer that they will no longer supply us with this particular item, we therefore had to mark this item as discontinued and canceled the open orders."

So I am still looking. If someone finds a place that has stock please let me know.

"Step into my world and see as I see"

My Nikonians Gallery

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

I just spoke with David Hemmings. He has eight BushHawks in stock. You must contact him directly to get ordering details.

His e-mail is:
davidhemmingsbirdphotography@gmail.com

Be sure to get the cable for the BushHawk that matches your camera body.

He will be leaving soon for the Galapagos Islands. You must place the order before he leaves. I believe he leaves on November 14th.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Did you try the mfg site at:
http://www.bushhawk.com/bushhawk/for-cameras/deluxe-kit

The cable is the Nikon 10 pin for the D800.

On that site, you must buy the kit and the carrying bag as separate items. I believe you also have to buy the mounting plate for your camera/lens as a separate item. I believe David includes all in his package. Mine had a Swiss Arca mount on it that matched my Kirk foot for my 200-400mm. (Yea, I know...Barbie Doll on hardware!)

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Ha! Bush Hawk is on the way, from Adorama after all. I put together the Nikon cord (for the 10 pin connector) and a Bush Hawk package without any cord. Cost a bit more, but that's okay.

Ron

which product #s did you end up ordering?

"Step into my world and see as I see"

My Nikonians Gallery

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

Great Ron.

Let us know how you like it.

JIM

Thank You, I sent him an email.

"Step into my world and see as I see"

My Nikonians Gallery

Visit my Nikonians gallery.

Great news!

When you receive the device and start shooting with it, there are some tricks that will help you get great images. It took me a couple of days shooting with it for two hours in the morning and two in the afternoon to get the hang of it. Don't give up after the first hour.

Using the BushHawk is a lot like shooting at quail with a real gun except you do not have to lead the birds with the sights as you fire rounds. You do have to keep the focus point on the moving object (bird) as you pull the trigger. I found that it worked best if I eased the trigger back for each shot, letting the focus work as I pulled until the shutter started firing. When you first start, you may have a tendency to jerk the trigger back causing the focus to move off the target.

I would typically shoot two or three images with each burst, but I noticed that David shot at least twice as many as I shot with his bursts. If you start with the target in the middle with the focus point on it, and move smoothly as you track the bird, you will get better results.

Like a gun, the device is far more stable if you brace it properly with both hands...pulling the stock into your shoulder with gentle pressure. If I was sitting on the ground, I would prop one of my grip hands on a knee to add more stability.

I took the foam covers off the stock (back) to make it easier to raise and fire fast. The foam kept catching on my shirt...slowing me down.

The beauty of the BushHawk compared with a tripod is that you do not have legs to trip over. You have full range of motion except possibly straight up...you can fall over backwards.

By my last day of shooting with it, I was getting far more tack sharp images than when I started. Of course, it helped with David there giving me tips.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

It was: 1. the BushHawk Shoulder Mount with Double Handle, BH 320D Pro Kit U. Universal Shoulder Support for All Cameras. Supplied WITHOUT Cord - Black, and 2. BushHawk CN 30 Dedicated Cord for Pro Nikon Cameras.
They seem to have the green shoulder mount in stock too. I preferred the black.
This universal kit has a quick release included. I had intended to get a RRS release, as I normally use their products. Hope the one with this kit is as good.
The total comes to about $95 more than the Nikon kit alone. The photo shows the cord, but it is not part of the kit. It also seems to have a mounting plate, which I actually do not need, but will likely find a use for sometime. A friend told me that Eagle Optics carries the Bush Hawk line, but I haven't checked to see if they have the Nikon kit.
Good luck.

Ron

some amazing images.....and GREAT links.
Thanks for sharing, guys !!!

I was looking at the collection of BushHawk images below from a search I executed and saw that the device is also used by military units. I guess that makes sense.

fficial&channel=fflb&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=6gmZUPHVB5Gy8AT77IFA&ved=0CF8QsAQ&biw=1680&bih=985" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">https://www.google.com/search?q=bushhawk+camera&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=Q4j&rls=org.mozilla:en-U fficial&channel=fflb&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=6gmZUPHVB5Gy8AT77IFA&ved=0CF8QsAQ&biw=1680&bih=985

I would bet that paparazzi also use them with telephoto lens to capture pix of celebrities on beaches etc. I was on the beach with mine every day, but the only non-suited animals that I saw had four legs..

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

A coupla more tips occurred to me last night. First, you might want to start with a shorter lens like a 70-200mm and graduate to a longer lens like a 300mm or 200-400mm after some practice. It is easier to handle less weight. Second, you could attach a laser pointer to the side of the grip to see how steady you are holding the camera/lens. The farther away you point the laser, the better the measure of stability. I have a friend who uses that technique with hand guns for practice. You could use electrical tape to attach the laser pointer temporarily. (I would not use a laser on an actual bird or animal; it might damage their vision.)

Finally, you may have to rotate the lens/camera using its collar adjustment to get level shots. I am right handed but left eyed. I had to rotate the camera to get level shots because of the angle I have to hold it to see through the viewfinder. (Same issue with a rifle and scope.)

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

I had no idea you could mount the BushHawk on other means of support. I only used it one way last week...with no support except my hands. I thought about how nice it would be to just place it on a monopod or tripod when I was resting in between shots. Today I found the pics below that show such configurations as well as a bipod. I would love to have a quick dismount that would work on a pod.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

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Thank You, I will take another look and see what I can peice together. I might be stuck waiting until Nov. 29th, the one I ordered from the person who is out of, seems the payment went through already.

"Step into my world and see as I see"

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Yes I looked at the mfg site. They are a little more expensive then Adorama, they don't sell the quick release plate I want to use and they don't take the payment type I was trying to use. I am quickly readjusting my plans and thoughts.

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I guess I was lucky David had one with him in Fort Myers...and with a Swiss Arca mount.

By the way, the mount on the bottom of the unit that will accept a tipod mount plate does not appear to be as substantial as I would want. It has a standard tripod screw thread, but the surrounding plastic is not flat and is not very wide. I could see it breaking easily if you knocked the unit over while mounted on a tripod or monopod.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Larry,
Many thanks for the tips on using the BH. Mine will not arrive for several days, but I am eager to try it.
I wonder why these things are so hard to find. I did a search for them and other than a bunch of hits for eBay sellers, they seem to be scarce.

Ron

Have no idea re availability unless they are just not big sellers. I doubt I would have bought one if I had not tried it with David Hemmings. I was convinced that I needed to use my Gitzo and Wimberley to get good BIF with the D800. Now that I know I can use the BH successfully with the D800e, I use it almost every day. We live on a lake, and there always birds coming by. I just shoot for practice if the scene is not great.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

While you wait, take a read on this review:
http://www.michaelfurtman.com/bushhawk_review.htm

I agree with it completely. I do think the company has made some improvements since the author wrote the review and updates. The lens mount on mine is rock solid, and the unit comes with a shoulder sling.

I was able to mount a Swiss Arca plate to the bottom today, so I can now quickly mount the whole thing on a monopod for added stability or a tripod to keep it off the ground when I am just eyeballing for my next shots.

I would not want to leave it on a fully-elevated tripod in high winds because the whole thing might blow over and break. Last week I saw a large Gitzo tripod that just had our jackets on it blow over; I shuttered to think that it could have had a camera/lens on it when that happened.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Thanks for the link. Quite a nice review.
I wish I could say I live on a lake. The closest lake to me is a deep water lake that is on the verge of drying up completely due to the extended drought (going on three years). There are however some good areas and I am trying to talk my usual shooting (photos) partner into a drive to the coast and the wildlife refuge there.

Ron

I have found that location, timing and weather are key elements when shooting BIF. I have been out several times to shoot this past week and had one of the following elements working against me:
- Wind blowing in wrong direction relative to the sun angle
- Wind blowing too hard for the birds to cruise by
- Tide was in too high and birds were not there due to water depth
- Temperature was too low for early morning activity

You have to really become a weather person.

I am glad I went with David Hemmings to understand these elements or I would have given up before I started.

Landscapes are much easier to shoot!

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

If you or anyone else is still looking for the BushHawk, I recommend going directly to the vendor. I have been waiting forever for David Hemmings to send me parts for my BushHawk that he did not have with him when I bought mine. He is shipping challenged.


http://www.bushhawk.com/bushhawk/for-cameras/deluxe-kit

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

I ordered mine from someone else. Because they took the payment option I wanted to use. Turns out He is on safari until the 29th, but I was stuck with waiting because the payment was already taken. So I am hoping I will have it the first week of December, Merry Christmas to me.

"Step into my world and see as I see"

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Great info on the BushHawk. Once I finally get my 70-200 VR II I'll have to seriously look into this setup. May have to put the 300mm 2.8 on my wish list as well.

Though not near as stunning as the other images posted here, I have had some success using the 24-70 2.8 with the D800E. Will be nice not to need such an extreme crop but good to have the option available.







Ken

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There is a great blog thread re use of the BushHawk at:
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/660948/0

Great tips about using a rifle sling attached to the lens instead of the BushHawk.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

Thanks that is going to be a great help when my BushHawk arrives.

"Step into my world and see as I see"

My Nikonians Gallery

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I followed thehotel's advice from FredMiranda and made a shoulder strap from the strap that came with my 200-400mm lens. I attached it directly to the lens lifting rings. It took me a few tries with adjustments, but when finished, I am really happy with the support and feel of the strap. When I am not shooting, the BushHawk and camera/lens are held close to my chest and waist. From there, I can quickly lift the whole thing into shooting position and start firing.

I sometimes get an out-of-focus first shot because the AF does not react fast enough to the BushHawk firing button (the shutter release button), but the second shot and beyond are spot on.

I was in Gatorland (Orlando) using it yesterday. Other than having a number of people admire my setup, I was more than pleased with the results. I can only remember one shot that I missed, and that was because I did not keep my eye on the potential targets....egrets riding on the backs of gators.

I plan to keep the BushHawk and 200-400mm on one of my D800e bodies all the time. Here in north central Florida, you never stop getting opportunities to use the combo.

Larry Jordan

D800E, 14-24, 50, 24-70, 70-180 Micro, 70-200, 80-400mm AF-S

Website:
http://larryjordan.smugmug.com/

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